Toyota Tundra Full Transmission Flush

Update: Half a year in and the transmission has never run better. The skipping and error codes went away. My mileage has gone up about 1-2MPG but that's pretty good when you started at 15MPG.

Most people are surprised when they see their Toyota doesn't have an Automatic Transmission dipstick anymore. Toyota has decided to have the dealer do all transmission checks, fills, and flushes so it's not made to be easy for owners. They say the transmission is "Sealed" but it's not, everything but the old dipstick is the same as older transmissions. They also claim their WS transmission fluid will last 100k miles. That's the part that worries me, I find it hard to believe anything can maintain it's quality over that many miles.

Fluid flushes fall into two main categories. First is a partial drain, where you just drain the AT oil pan and refill it. However this only replaces about one quarter of the fluid in the transmission. Because the new and old mixes each time, even if you did 5 partial changes in a row, 25% of the old fluid would still be in there.

This video is the second category, flushing the whole transmission apparatus (or most of it). Simply put we're using the engine to pump out the old fluid and letting the transmission refill itself with new fluid.

There are many forums online debating and explaining how and why to do this, feel free to check them out. Most of this video's information came from one forum here:
http://www.tundratalk.net/forums/main...

A few important points!
This is done with the 2009 Service Manual on a 2009 Tundra.
I believe the jumper points on the diagnostic port are the same on all models and years but can't be sure.
The optimum temperature for checking the fluid level varies by model year!!!
The 2007 TSB says 115-133F. My 2009 Service Manual says 99-111F. SO I recommend engaging the vehicle's AT Temp check mode so it will tell you when the temp is right.

What you need:
An oil pan with measurements on it.
14mm deep socket or normal with a 3" extension
24mm regular socket
5mm hex key, although I recommend a socket in case your bolt is seized
Needle-nose pliers to move hose clamps
10ft 1/2" ID tubing to drain
10ft 5/8" ID tubing to fill (no larger than that or it doesn't fit)
A funnel that can fit into the 5/8" tubing
2 paper clips (one to hold the AT cooler valve open, one to jumper the OBD port)
Something like a narrow flat head screwdriver to push the AT cooler valve in
3+ gallons of ATF fluid (The AT takes about 3gals but you want about 3 qts extra)
Lots of paper towels or rags to clean messes

Here are a few odds and ends I didn't have and had to run to the store for (not many basic socket sets come with a 24mm socket, etc).
1/2" drive 24mm socket = http://amzn.to/2c4Z6zU
Wheel Chocks = http://amzn.to/2creLaU
3/8" drive 5mm hex socket = http://amzn.to/2cAmbgh

I used generic WS compatible fluid instead of ordering the expensive stuff from Toyota. This is one of the most debated things so it's your choice, but here's the link to what I used.
Valvoline Max Life Synthetic ATF = http://amzn.to/2c512sd
*Make sure it's the red bottle. The back lists it can be used as a replacement for Toyota WS ATF.