Farmhouse end table build (Free plans in description)

Here's a video of a set of end tables I made (video is the process for one table). Let me know in the comments what you think! Materials are listed below and in the intro. Enjoy!

Tools used in this video
Dewalt miter saw: https://amzn.to/39oR2Y7
K4 Kreg Jig: https://amzn.to/3oq5fbt
Jorgensen clamps: https://amzn.to/3j3FEnO
Central Machinery 2 HP dust collector: https://amzn.to/3tYrbON
Irwin 24” clamps: https://amzn.to/2NpFRWv
Bostitech nail gun: https://amzn.to/2KW64uT
HomeRight Paint Sprayer: https://amzn.to/2Mw81ii


Materials:
Legs - 2x4 cut to 20" long (x4)
Horizontal leg braces (where the X goes) - 2x4 cut to 17.25" long (x4)
Horizontal leg braces (on the sides) - 2x2 cut to 15" long (x4)
Top boards - 1x8" cut to 22.5" long (x3)
X piece - 2x2 rough cut to 24" long (overlap and trace the angles)
Bottom shelf - 1x3" furring strip cut to 17.25" long (x5)
Bottom shelf support - 3/4 x 3/4" scrap cut to ~ 14.75" long

How to build:
0:00 - 0:45 : cut out the legs and the first support frame pieces. These are cut from a 2x4 board with no planing/milling

0:45 - 1:30 : cut pocket holes on each end of the horizontal support frame, NOT the legs. Attach in a square (leave room for the feet!) using pocket holes, glue and clamps.

1:30 - 2:45 - cut the side horizontal braces from 2x2 and cut pocket holes in each side. Attach on each corned of the first square using pocket hole screws (face the pocket holes up on the top and down on the bottom so they don't show). Attach the other square frame to the supports and you should have a box.

2:45 - 3:45 - attach scrap shelf support to the SIDE horizontal frames. I used glue and brad nails here. Next, cut the furring strips to diameter of the width of the table. Glue and brad nail to the supports that were just added.

3:45 - 4:30 - overlap the X frame boards (2x2) and trace the angle - I do not measure the angles and have no idea what the angles actually are. Cut the angles with a miter saw and wedge the X pieces in the frame, overlapping each other. Trace where they cross on each piece in the middle.

4:30 - 5:20 - I cut a half lap joint in each X piece (where they overlap) using a radial arm saw. It's possible to use a table saw, miter saw, hand saw, circular saw, and probably a few more ways. Be careful with this step!!! I then used screws to attach the X going in from the top and the bottom of the frame.

5:20 - 5:50 - I painted this using valspar antique white using a Homeright super finish max paint sprayer. I did not thin the paint, nor did I use primer on this table.

5:50 - 6:45 - I cut the top from 1x8 appearance pine board and stained them with Minwax Early American. I normally assemble the tops first, but I wanted to try it differently for this build. I let the stain set for about 10 minutes then wiped off the excess with a rag. This worked out great!

6:45 - 8:10 - I aligned the top boards for a ~ 15mm overhang on each side. I then attached each board individually with screws. I was going for a rustic farmhouse look, so I am not concerned at all with the boards slightly separating from wood movement. I normally make table buttons, or use table top fasteners for attaching tops.

8:10 - 8:30 - I used Minwax gloss polyurethane as a top clear coat. This poly has a great shine to it!

Thanks for watching! Be sure to subscribe for more upcoming videos! Check out my Instagram page @MMCC_Woodshop!

Matt

*DISCLAIMER* The following content is for entertainment purposes only. Woodworking and using power tools can be extremely dangerous if not done properly. YOU (the viewer) are fully responsible for understanding proper use of tools, as well as the safety features of each. I highly suggest reading the owners manual and/or watching how-to videos on the tools. I (MMCC_Woodshop) am not responsible nor liable for any injury, death, or handing of the tools you may use, nor do I assume to display the proper handing of as a demonstration. Please use extreme caution when working with any power tools. - Matt

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