Скачать или смотреть This Is Not Your Typical Jacket, and Not Your Typical Tailor | Where Philosophy Meets Tailoring |E27

Designing and building AskOkey's jackets for comfort, elegance and fit.

0:00 - Intro
00:30 - The one-button jacket, and why it only has one front button.
03:00 - The jacket closing button is at the mid point of the jacket.
05:00 - The classic jacket gorge is about where your collar points end.
07:00 - The collar is well canvased and fitted.
09:50 - The jacket has three layers of canvas.
15:00 - The shoulder seam is placed according to your posture and to balance the jacket.
16:40 - The chest piece is shaped with darts.
17:50 - Sleeves are pitched according to how your arms hang.
20:00 - A three-roll-two jacket is not a two button jacket with an extra button.
22:30 - Patch pockets look square, but they are not actually square.
24:30 - Button holes are hand made.
26:00 - Proff's suit: a three-button suit.
27:30 - Double-F full cut trousers.
29:30 - The fishtail is essential to the trouser drape.
31:30 - A three-button suit is more casual, particularly in a summer fabric.
32:00 - How Proff designed the double-breasted jacket.
35:00 - The double-breasted jacket is fully canvased, and the panels do not pull.
38:30 - The arms hang straight.
42:00 - A different fabric makes it look like a different style of jacket.
45:00 - The drape cut needs more structure and excess fabric in front.
47:00 - You can achieve good construction in a factory, but it will not be what a bespoke garment will be.
47:50 - Closing

AskOkey Made-to-Measure Is Launching Soon
Express of Interest Form: https://kingofdrape.com/mtm-eoi

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