Скачать или смотреть Big rubber strikes again

One of the more specialized aspects of climbing, Lead Rope Soloing does not get a lot of love from gear manufactures, but our friend Brent Barghahn is working to change that. His company Avant Climbing Innovations just released a new rubber widget and Brent was willing to do some human testing with us.

If you haven't watched our Lead Rope Solo episode with Brent yet, you should go watch that first.    • Send without friends: Lead Rope Solo  

Without a belayer to absorb some the force and make the catch soft, LRS falls can be pretty harsh. Avant's Comfort Catch LRS Absorber bands are integrated into the anchor to dissipate the worst impact of the fall before it impacts your body.

We hooked up a Linescale3 to measure the force Brent was experiencing as he repeated hucked himself off the wall. He saw 4 kN with NO BANDS, but only the dynamic rope in the system. He recommends 2 Plush bands for the fall he was taking and that dropped the force to 3.31 kN. We tried 1 Plush band and he saw 4.76 kN. When we decided to chain 4 Plush and 3 comfort he was only subjected to 2.5 kN.

We happened to be filming some testing on shock absorbing screamers for climbing, so we decided Brent needed to fall on one of those to see if they could be used instead of his Comfort Catch Absorbers. We got 3.7 kN on Brent, which is really close to the force he saw with only dynamic rope in the system because it didn't extend at all.

A 206 lbs rock helped demonstrate what a bad idea it would be to misuse Avant's LRS absorber by placing it on a marginal piece instead of a screamer. It rubber bands the carabiner and the piece right into your face when it blows!

The rock also crashed to the crag floor to illustrate what a bad idea it would be to use the bands without a life supporting limiting sling. It is NOT PPE, use a rated sling to go with the bands.

Back at the Lab in WA Brent talked us through his design process, the finer points of how to use the product and we were marginally successful at pulling the bands to failure on our slow pull break test machines.

Get rubber at https://hownot2.com/products/avant-co...

Get a LineScale3i at https://hownot2.com/products/linescale-3

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