VT/EYE TO EYE PRUSIK Educational Series (Episode #1)!

VT (Valdotain Tresse) Prusik

Special thanks to the commenter of my previous video who suggested I ad lib this video!

The VT Prusik was created by Rich Carlson and his channel is at:    / @canyonscrags  

Characteristics of a VT prusik:

Comes in a variety of lengths, with the most common being 28”, 30”, and 32” and each end has a sewn eye. It has a core that is typically made from Nylon, Polyester, Dyneema or a blend of two of these fibers. Covering and protecting the core is the sheath, which is usually made from aramid fibers such as Technora or Kevlar and sometimes a blend consisting of one of these two aramids mixed with polyester is used. These aramid fibers are extremely resistant to heat, which prevent the sheath from melting from the rope on rope friction created during their use, especially during descents. Technora, in particular, does not melt whatsoever, making it ideal for this purpose.

When loaded from eye to eye, this Teufelberger EpiCord, which is 9.3mm in diameter and 32” in length, has a strength (MBS) of around 3,000lbs (13kN). When it is in basket configuration, the MBS becomes 6,000lbs (26kN).

Eye to Eye Hitch Cords VS. Sewn Loops:

Because it is an eye to eye, and not a sewn loop, there are a large number of unique and helpful hitches that can be tied with it. Loops only allow the climber to make symmetric prusiks, whereas an eye to eye allows for the tying of asymmetric prusiks.

Unlike the symmetric prusik, which has a tendency to easily jam under load, making it difficult or impossible to ascend or descend, the VT will reliably allow a climber to descend, even when their full body weight is on the hitch. Ascending with the VT is also much easier because the design of the hitch releases constriction around the rope as the climber begins lifting the hitch from the two eyes.

Applications for the VT Prusik/Asymmetric Prusik:

Typically, it’s best to use an asymmetric prusik for ascending and the VT for descending. Although the VT can most certainly be used for ascending, the reason why an asymmetric prusik is better suited for that application is that it has virtually no “sit back.” If one were to use a VT, for every foot they ascend, for example, they would lose about three inches or so from the “sit back.”

While eye to eye prusiks are great for tying hitches, that isn’t their only possible use! They can also be used as a lanyard at full or half length by connecting it to one’s harness. In full length, one eye is affixed to the connection point on a climber’s harness by using either a locking carabiner or a quick link. For a half length lanyard, the eye to eye prusik is folded into basket configuration, with the midpoint of the cord secured around the climber’s harness and with a carabiner through both eyes at the opposite end.

Additionally, it can be folded into basket configuration and a carabiner can be attached to both ends, forming an emergency quickdraw that can be full, half or quarter length!

VT Prusik Cord Rope Compatibility:

An 8mm VT prusik cord, for example, is designed to be compatible with ropes of equal or larger diameter. This is made possible in part because of its ability to flatten out as it is wrapped around a rope, creating a large amount of surface area for it to produce rope on rope friction.

Customizing Eye to Eye Prusik Hitches:

It is important to remember that, just because you were taught to tie a hitch a certain way doesn’t mean that it has to be tied exactly the same way under all conditions. If a hitch is normally taught to have four wraps at the start of the hitch, but you find that you’re struggling to get the hitch to move, don’t be afraid to try three wraps instead, or even two wraps if you’re a smaller person. Just be sure to make and test these adjustments “low and slow,” which is to say that you should be low to the ground and make sure that you cautiously execute your test motions.