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What are Narrow Root and Omega Adjustments in Bra Patterns? Why would one need to make these changes and can't I just trim off the extra bits?


Transcript:
"The topic of the day is ‘What is a narrow root aka Omega adjustment in bra making?’ This pattern adjustment is often applied by those who have large cups and smaller bands where the breast root or breast crease is smaller than expected. This is commonly characterized by the cups of the correct volume paired with wires that wrap around the torso towards the back. In bra patterns, that means using a larger cup and a smaller wire and cradle for the best fit. Herein lies the problem. Since the cup is larger, the seam lengths no longer match. You may think, oh, can't I just trim off the excess wire line from the cups? The short answer is no. Cutting off the excess wireline at the neckline or the underarm area is NOT the same as an omega or narrow root adjustment. It is similar to lowering the neckline and armhole of a fitted tank top that's too small in the bust in order to get it “to fit”. With clothing adjustments., darts are added to create shaping and contouring. The Omega adjustment is the same thing for bras. We've just made it pretty, by incorporating the darts into existing seams. This is very similar to rotating bust darts. Check out more information about breast shape, bra fitting and pattern drafting on our website at www.lilypadesigns.com."

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Lily Fong, M.Ed. is the radiant designer and pattern maker behind LilypaDesigns with 28+ years of sewing experience She helps people achieve their dreams - of a well fitting bra - through her PDF Sewing Patterns, Blog, Sewing Community, Online Courses and Sewing Supplies. Her patterns pieces are designed to mix and match different sizes to better match individual body shapes while the Instructions read like a Choose-Your-Own-Adventure book.

Employing multiple drafting methods to help as many people as possible into comfortable bras for a diverse and inclusive range of sizes (A-K cup and 60" hip). Her love of teaching and penchant for data led to a different method of selecting bra sizes - one that depends on breast measurement instead of chest circumference.

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