Second Step of Controlling Claw with Drone (speedybee f405)(radiomaster zorro) (Raspberry pi)

Описание к видео Second Step of Controlling Claw with Drone (speedybee f405)(radiomaster zorro) (Raspberry pi)

Hello everyone. In this video, I will be showing you a more advanced version of my claw. Last video, I used a breadboard as well as an external power source. In this video, I soldered everything onto a proto board. This is because a breadboard is not very robust: the wires are simply hand placed in and can simply fall out, especially on a drone that vibrates. A proto board on the other hand has soldered wires which are much more robust.
Here is what the proto board looks like.
I have the buzzer pads emitting an oscillating signal that goes into the raspberry pi. To help troubleshoot and determine when the buzzer signal is active, I soldered a blue LED to the buzzer output. The signal then goes into the pi and the pi turns that signal into a PWM signal to communicate to the claw. My green led shows the PWM duty cycle. When the claw is closed, the duty cycle is higher which means the light is brighter. Instead of using an external power source, I installed a 2S battery. I needed 2S because the voltage needed to make the claw function is 7.4 volts and the 2S was perfect for that. At first, I tried to rush the soldering for the raspberry pi on the proto board but my solder points weren't well done and this caused the circuit to not work. This is the first circuit that was messy compared to the second one that was clean. To solder properly, I found it helpful to map out my solder points on google sheets before actually soldering. To do this, I took a picture of my proto board with the raspberry pi in position. I then used the variety of shape options on google slides to simulate resistors, LEDs and wires. So when soldering, I could look at my laptop screen and know exactly where to solder my points. I was actually quite surprised by the toughness of the speedybee's FC because I had soldered some wires that shorted the FC. I had shorted the flight controller so many times yet when I removed the wires that were causing the short, the FC worked as normal, as if nothing happened.
However, I ran into an additional problem with this proto board. It was too awkward to install on the drone. So instead, I used zip ties and tied it to the bottom of the drones using some holes in my frame that I had out in anticipation of various mounting needs. To attach all the batteries, I used velcro. I am working on a solution to better stabilize my claw before flying it. Here is a demo of the mechanical aspects. For now the drone is hand held and the raspberry pi is tethered to the PC using a cable. However, the claw is fully controlled using the remote control via the FC and the raspberry pi.

Комментарии

Информация по комментариям в разработке