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What is Wave, Significant wave height and factors affecting wave height II Sailor 360
Hello Navigator ! Today our topic-What is Wave, Significant wave height and factors affecting wave height.
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A wave is a disturbance or oscillation in a medium, such as water, caused by the transfer of energy through the medium. In the maritime context, ocean waves are generated on the surface of the sea, primarily by the wind. These waves involve the movement of energy, not water itself, across the surface.
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How Do Waves Occur?
Ocean waves are primarily caused by wind. When the wind blows across the surface of the ocean, friction between the air and the water transfers energy, creating ripples. These ripples grow into waves under the following process:
1. Wind Friction: Wind creates small ripples.
2. Energy Accumulation: As the wind continues, it transfers more energy, increasing the size of the waves.
3. Wave Growth: If the wind is sustained, ripples grow into larger waves, forming a more organized wave system.
Other causes of waves include:
• Tides: Generated by the gravitational pull of the moon and the sun.
• Seismic Activity: Underwater earthquakes can create tsunamis.
• Human Activities: Ships and explosions can generate artificial waves.
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Factors Affecting Significant Wave Height
Significant Wave Height (SWH) is the average height of the highest one-third of waves in a given sea state. It is influenced by:
1. Wind Speed: Faster winds transfer more energy, creating higher waves.
2. Wind Duration: The longer the wind blows over a region, the larger the waves can become.
3. Fetch: The distance over which the wind blows without interruption. Longer fetches allow waves to grow larger.
4. Water Depth: Shallow water limits wave height, while deep water allows waves to grow freely.
5. Current: Ocean currents can amplify or dampen wave heights.
6. Storm Systems: Storms can produce exceptionally high waves due to intense and sustained winds.


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Video Sections:
00:00 Intro 🌊
00:05 Waves: Energy Movement, Not Water Flow 🌊
00:15 Wind's Role in Wave Formation 🌬️
00:38 Energy Accumulation Creates Larger Waves ⚡
00:52 Other Wave Causes: Tides & Tsunamis 🌑
01:11 Factors Impacting Wave Height 🌊
01:23 Wind Speed's Effect on Waves 💨
01:29 Wind Duration Influences Wave Size ⏳
01:34 Fetch: Distance Determines Wave Growth 🚤
01:45 Shallow vs Deep Water Effects 🌊
01:52 Ocean Currents' Influence on Waves 🌊
01:56 Storm Systems Produce High Waves ⛈️

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