Alaïa Fall 2024, Moschino's New Creative Director, Kim Kardashian's Balenciaga + More

In todays video I review Alaïa's Fall Winter 2024 Runway Collection / Show (by Pieter Mulier). I also talk about Moschino's new creative director Adrian Appiolaza as well as Kim Kardashian's recent and expected return to being an ambassador for Balenciaga.

Watching Pieter Mulier’s fall Alaia show made a stupendous emotional and intellectual impact. As his women walked across the mirrored floor of the Paris boutique, their spiraling, sculptural clothes sent a shiver of surprise around the room. You saw a progression of astonishingly innovative techniques, drapes, and silhouettes aligning. The female body and a sophisticated mentality were being connected in a way that felt like a class apart. It was a departure from anything that fashion has been showing in the past season, or indeed, from what Mulier has shown at the house before. Surrounded by the clamor of congratulations, Mulier explained the thread that united everything—both technically and conceptually. From the looped yarns of the deconstructed knitwear that opened the show, to the sculptural topiary-like forms of coats, to the asymmetrical dresses through the multi-layered trousers at the end, “everything is made from one material: merino wool. I’ve been working on it for a year, with only a couple of suppliers. It’s based on circles. It’s simple,” he claimed. “Very simple!” It seems odd to describe something as technically exceptional and mathematically mind-blowing as this collection as “simple,” but you understood what he was getting at. It takes a kind of genius to go so deeply into experimental territory and not lose sight of what they’re saying with it. “It’s moving on. I mean, we did va-va-voom for two-and-a-half years, and I still love it, but it’s not the moment where the world is now,” Mulier said. “ It’s…how can you say it properly? It’s less sexualized, but still sensual.” He captured that sensibility ingeniously. Draped tops fell asymmetrically in elegant folds; minimalist skirts and dresses were looped and wrapped, sarong-like, to show a leg. A black jumpsuit seemed to be made of one continuous piece, gathered into a halter in front, leaving the back bared. Knitted turtleneck tabard sweaters showed slivers of naked torsos in passing. “I love that you’re covered, you’re covered completely—but then you show something.” Up until now, Mulier’s collections have shown the tension and difficulty of paying homage to the letter of Azzedine Alaia’s storied archive. That was a hard road to follow. With this move forward he effectively entered creative territory of his own, while still honoring the lofty principle of making an exceptionally-designed wardrobe for a modern Alaia woman. Mulier’s salutes to Azzedine’s style were there all right—in the snaps he used in a polka-dot pattern; in the woolen puffs on glove-gauntlets; in his use of denim in curviform jeans and of jacquard animal patterns. But with this collection, he’s reached the point where he showed he can fly by his own lights.

Get ready for another parade of Kim Kardashian in black spandex ensembles. Less than 24 hours after Balenciaga announced the Skims founder had officially joined the luxury house as a brand ambassador, Kardashian appeared in her first campaign in her new role to herald the return of the label’s Le City oversized leather bag, which became a mainstay in the 2000s thanks to supermodel Kate Moss. Over the past few years, Kardashian has played muse to the brand’s most recent creative director, Demna Gvasalia, in everything from mobility-limiting yellow caution tape to spectral head-to-toe black fabric. But for her first official official outing as ambassador, her simple silhouette is classic Kimenciaga: a seamless tube top-pantaleggings ensemble that fits neatly with her own shapewear empire’s aesthetic.

Moschino has named Adrian Appiolaza its new creative director, overseeing women’s, men’s and accessories collections at the Aeffe-owned house, reporting to Aeffe executive chairman Massimo Ferretti. Appiolaza joins Moschino from Loewe, where he spent a decade working under Jonathan Anderson as women’s ready-to-wear design director. Previously, he held the same position at Chloé working under Clare Waight Keller. Appiolaza succeeds Davide Renne, who was hired from Gucci to replace longtime Moschino designer Jeremy Scott but died from a sudden illness before his debut show. He will present his first collection for the house on February 22 at Milan Fashion Week.

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