Скачать или смотреть Climbing Unimpeachable Groping (5.10b/c) - Red Red Canyon, NV

0:00 Approach to Ginger Buttress
1:00 Getting lost
1:55 Pitch 1
5:00 Crux at top of P1
8:05 Pitch 2 & 3
9:50 No hands slab move (P 2/3)
12:45 Pitch 4
13:02 The roof (P4)
16:35 Cool traverse (P4)
18:40 Pitch 5 & 6
23:00 Crux move (P 5/6)
24:00 Pumpy climbing (P 5/6)
28:25 We are exhausted
31:30 Pitch 7
36:36 The top
37:00 Rappel
37:31 We hope the rope doesn't get stuck on the rappel
38:30 The rope is stuck
39:00 Last raps

Shawn and I were looking for a challenging multi-pitch route at Red Rock Canyon and the most attractive option seemed like Unimpeachable Groping, which was originally rated at 5.10d. I think over time the consensus is now that it's more like 5.10b, but it's a very sustained climb with 6 of the 7 pitches in the 5.10 range.

We decided to get there early to avoid getting stuck behind other parties. Luckily, we were able to get on first, and I believe we were the only group that finished the route that day. I personally believe you need to be climbing 5.11 fairly comfortably to be able to complete a route like this in a day, because you're onsighting so many 5.10 pitches, but I think the 5.10b rating lures people in who are used to climbing mostly 5.10b on single-pitch routes.

We linked pitches 2/3 and 5/6 together, and the route feels like 5.10c to me if you're not an endurance machine and you link it in that fashion.

We were able to flash every pitch, although I got close to falling a few times.

Hope the video gives you an indication of the climb and the rappel, along with the approach, and is also somewhat enjoyable to watch.