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What is Dart in Clothing?
Darts are a dressmaker’s punctuation marks. It is an essential part of garment construction. Darts are folds and sewn into fabric to take in ease and provide shape to a garment, especially for a woman’s bust. Darts help in shaping the fabric to fit the body and thus provide comfort to the wearer. They provide fullness to natural body curves. Darts are very rarely used for decorative purposes like providing a design line. The fitting, marking, stitching and pressing of darts should be done accurately. In this article I will discuss details on dart manipulation techniques for flat patterns.

To create new designs for garments, it is specially used for ladies garments. It save fabric wastage and also use to remove excess fabric. Darts are needed to turn two-dimensional shapes into three-dimensional shapes and to fit clothes closely to the body.

Application of Dart Manipulation – Introduction to design patterns
The technique is applied when the dart of working patterns (bodice, skirt, sleeve, or any working pattern) are relocated in the process of creating design patterns. To create a design pattern, the design is analyzed first to identify the location of the dart or equivalent before manipulating the pattern.

The following design projects illustrate the beginning of pattern manipulation, and each process should be completed in the order given because each will help to prepare the pattern maker or designer for more advanced work. Both artistic and technical skills are required to successfully create design patterns.

Different Darts Locations:
Darts can be located in a number of different places on a bodice to alter its style.

Fig-2: Different dart locations

Completing the Dart:
The dart can be finished one of two ways:

1. Trim dart excess to within 1/2 inch of the seam line before stitching the dart.

Fold the dart excess under and stitch on the seam line.



Dart Manipulation Techniques:
Dart manipulation is one of the most important techniques when it comes to pattern drafting. Fashion designer must identify the location of the dart before manipulating the pattern and how manipulate the dart. Dart manipulation mainly starts with a basic sloper, which they then convert into their stylish designs. Darts become princess seams, gathers, tucks or cowls. New styles lines are added or moved, necklines are reshaped.

There are three dart manipulation techniques in flat patterns. These are suitable for manipulate dart to any location. The slash and spread or pivot method mostly use to transfer darts to the bust, neck, armhole or anywhere you want!

Pin and pivotal dart transfer technique.

Slash-spread transfer and overlap technique

Dart equivalent technique

1. Pin and Pivotal dart rotation technique:
Pattern designers use pivoting methods to make fashion changes. They move darts or add fullness by anchoring the basic pattern with a pin and moving the pattern in, out, and around. The pattern swings back and forth like the pendulum on a grandfather clock. Use this pivoting motion to change the pattern width.

In this method does not require the working be slashed in order to change its original shape into design pattern. It is a transfer method and with experience, it is preferred.

2. Slash-spread dart rotation and overlap technique:
Pattern graders use the slide motion to change pattern sizes. They slide patterns up, down, and to the side to gradually increase or decrease from one size to the next. Use this sliding motion to add or subtract length.

Fig-4: Slash-spread transfer and overlap technique

Pivot and slide techniques combine these two motions to fit a pattern simply, yet accurately. You make all of the changes on a worksheet (pattern paper or tissue paper), keeping the original pattern intact—no more cutting and taping! By changing the pattern equally on both sides of the grain, the seam and the design lines are kept in proportion to the original pattern. Best of all, each change is easy.

3. Dart equivalents technique:
Pleats or gathers in the fabric can be used as for the same purpose as a normal stitched dart. These are called dart equivalents. Darts can also be worked into style lines. The dart excess can be used to create a wide variety of other design features such as, style lines, multiple, tucks, gathers, pleats, flare and even cowls. Essentially, the dart or its equivalent is always present somewhere in the pattern. The dart or its equivalent will always radiate from the pivot point.

Fig-5: Dart equivalents technique

Different Types of Darts:
The different types of darts are discussed below:

Straight dart

Curved outward dart

Curved inward dart

Neckline dart

Double pointed dart

Dart in interfacing

1. Straight dart: 
It is a straight line of stitching from the point to the seam line (Fig-6). This can be noticed in the underarm of the front bodice, back skirt, shoulder, elbow and back neckline.
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