Building A Dyneema Sling Anchor

In this episode of Explore and Traverse, Mike goes over how to build a Dyneema sling anchor and some of the pros and cons of this system.

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Materials:

240 cm Dyneema Sling
Two locking carabiners

Steps:

1. Take sling and double up by twisting one strand and equalizing with other end.
2. Take one end and add an overhand knot.
3. Repeat with other end so that the knots are 12” apart and both arms are equal.
4. Add one locker to each arm

Advantages:

1. LIGHTWEIGHT
2. Compact
3. Strong
4. Simple

Disadvantages

1. Over hand knots can reduce sling integrity by 50%.
2. Does not stretch.
3. Wears quicker than cordallette.
4. Sheds water easier(alpine/ice).

Note: The knot does reduce the integrity of the sling between 20%-50% through private and company tests. With Dyneema slings typically rated at 22 kN. With both strands doubled up this puts the strength rating between 22 kN and 40 kN. This should still maintain a safety margin of 4 times the output of what most climbers will exert on an anchor.

Double Note: Since Dyneema slings can get worn easily, they should be retired regularly.

Warning:
Climbing is an inherently dangerous sport and can result in death or severe injury. This video is not a substitute for training, professional guidance, or common sense. Climbing etiquette and safety is ever-evolving and constantly improving. The producer and host assume no liability for injury, death, property damage, violations of the law, or damage to one’s own ego.