Solo Backpacking the Classic and Unforgettable Laugavegur

This trip started with a bus ride from Reykjavik to Landmannalaugar. There are currently two companies that provide bus rides to and from the Highlands. The one I used was Trex. The other is Reykjavik Excursions. Both operate out of Reykjavik and go to and from Landmannalaugar and Thorsmork. I believe Trex also stops at Skogar. Landmannalauger was a tent city with all the amenities of a proper base camp to support the population. All the trails around the area are loaded with people. Which can be fun because you’re sure to meet people along the way. Camping on the first night at Hrafntinnusker was a new experience. I’ve never hiked and camped “hut to hut” before Iceland. It was nice having a shelter to cook dinner and breakfast in. Not to mention running water and toilets. The volcanic landscape with its geothermal activity is something that simply must be experienced. It is like nothing I’ve ever seen before. Natural yet otherworldly and absolutely stunning. I bypassed the larger hut and camping area at Alftavatn in anticipation of a storm coming in the next day. Alftavatn is right on Lake Alftavatn which is another jaw dropping landscape. I would have loved to have spent more time hiking around the lake. So, the second night was at the Hvanngil hut just 3.9 km beyond. I was warmly greeted at Hvanngil and got a hot shower! The weather did move in the next day on my way to Emstrur. Luckily, it wasn’t nearly as bad as I had anticipated. The trail from Hvanngil to Emstrur is much flatter and easier to negotiate over all, except for at least one river crossing that requires taking off your boots. (Which isn’t hard, just very cold and a bit of a pain!) By the time I pitched my tent in Emstrur, the rain started pouring. It was actually pleasant being dry and cozy in the tent with the rain pattering down and the stream rushing in the background. From here, I hiked to Thorsmork. Unfortunately, the weather did come in that day with rain, light wind and low visibility. It was still an absolutely gorgeous hike with an eerie almost haunting vibe. My plan was to continue from Thorsmork to Skogar on the famous Fimmvorduhals trail which terminates in Skogar. But by the next day, the rain had come in earnest and the visibility was very poor. I almost did it regardless but opted for the bus ride back to Reykjavik figuring that I would suffer horizontal rain and see very little. This trip was done in August of 2024, which was during an uncommonly stormy, rainy, and grey summer in Iceland.

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A partial gear list:

Tarptent Scarp 1 Tent
Zenbivy Light Bed Sleep System
Sea to Summit Ether Light XT Sleeping Pad
Topo Athletic Trailventure WP 2 Hiking Boots
Patagonia Men's Torrentshell 3L Rain Jacket
REI Flash 65 Backback
Peak Design Travel Pod Tripod
FUJIFILM XT-4
Tamron 11-20mm F2.8 RXD Lens
FUJIFILM XF 70-300mm f/4-5.6 R LM OIS WR Lens
DJI Pocket 3 Action Camera and Mic 2