Chef Daniel Humm on Plant-Based Luxury

For far too long fine dining has been stuck in outdated ideas of luxury, with animal products defined by their expense and rarity. But now that anyone willing to shell out a few extra bucks at Whole Foods can throw a Kobe steak on the grill, or pick up a cheap tin of farmed caviar, these one-time-delicacies have become commonplace. Harder to replicate is the time, skill, and knowledge it requires to take a beet to the next level. “It’s time we rethought luxury,” says Chef Daniel Humm of New York’s Eleven Madison Park in an interview with TIME. “It’s not the cost of the ingredients someone is using, it’s the human thought, the work by hand…[the] experiences that you can only have in a few places in the world.” In the two years since his heavily laureled restaurant (three Michelin stars, voted 2017’s World’s Best Restaurant) went vegan, vegetables have never had it better, elevated to cult luxury status normally reserved for the foie gras, Kobe beef, caviar, and butter-poached lobster that he used to serve.

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