Vintage Correct Stratocaster Trem Blocks and How They Can Improve Your Tone

It's incredible after all of the so-called "vintage" blocks I've tried, that the Mark Foley block finally made my Strat play and sound like it should. It is amazing how much that little extra sustain will influence your playing. And, the high E is more prominent in the mix. I didn't believe it at first but I am now thoroughly convinced that the vintage steel makes your Strat sound its best. I also show you how to correctly install them (see also NOTE #3 below). I've spent way too much money on trying to find a decent trem block. I put some links below of some of the decent steel ones but none of them compare to the Mark Foley vintage correct block, in my humble opinion. This is not intended to be a promotion for MF blocks but I just had to share this discovery with my subscribers because I think you will thank me for it. If you watch nothing, at least go to the end where I give my final opinion, and also the part about removing the paint on you existing block.

Also, for starters, before you spend the big bucks on a MF block, scrape the paint off of your existing block to see if you notice any difference. If you do not notice any improvement, you may want to order the vintage correct MF block.

NOTE: I've realized that more mass does not necessarily equate to better tone. Maybe more sustain but that brass block was so dark sounding and it was the densest one. I think it is a function of mass AND steel compound and Rockwell hardness. The Callaham blocks have the correct mass but their hardness may be what makes them too bright sounding IMO. It's a delicate balance that Fender got correct maybe just by chance back in the old days when things were made differently. Once they started changing the block size and material, the guitars definitely started to lose their signature tone.

**NOTE #2**: When I put the 50's block on my 1964 Strat, I noticed the air gaps between the vintage 1964 plate and the top of block. It made me wonder why. I think I may have an explanation. Notice how thin the steel is at the base of each of the three mounting holes due to the hole bevel. Over tightening those screws may cause them to bulge a little. It would be better if they didn't bevel those holes to where they are so thin. It is probably best to replace those plates when you start to notice the problem. The next problem is where to find a vintage correct plate that is made of the same material as the original. I've asked Mark Foley if he makes any.

NOTE #3: I got a good suggestion on one website to screw the whammy bar through the plate and into the block BEFORE you tighten up the three plate mounting screws. That way, the bar stays aligned with the hole so it is easy to screw in and out.

Mark Foley - email him at [email protected]

Guitar Fetish - https://www.guitarfetish.com/USA-2-73..., NOTE from their website, "These are black electrocoated to fend off rust. (Silver paint looks cool but paint tends to dampen vibration a bit, and hence tone and sustain are very slightly affected)"

Callaham - https://www.callahamguitars.com/strat...

Kluson - https://reverb.com/p/kluson-kvsb-cold...,

Kluson - https://www.kluson.com/kluson-milled-...

Fender Pure Vintage - https://www.amazon.com/Fender-Vintage...

Allparts - https://www.allparts.com/products/bp-...

Crazy Parts - https://www.crazyparts.de/pre-cbs-fen...

11:56 - Beginning of block installation
20:14 - How to remove the paint on the block easily
34:43 - Final verdict after playing it for one night