Hiking Above the Clouds: Madeira's Pico Arieiro to Pico Ruivo Trail

The hike from Pico do Areeiro to Pico Ruivo in Madeira, Portugal is absolutely breathtaking. The trail, known as Vereda do Arieiro, takes you along narrow pathways, challenging staircases, and through dark tunnels, all while offering spectacular views of the mountains and valleys.

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The hike begins near the weather station after the parking area, and initially, the trail is easy to follow with clear signposts and a paved pathway. Pico do Areeiro is the third highest peak in Madeira, while Pico Ruivo is the highest at 1861m. The round-trip hike covers a distance of 11km and typically takes about 7 to 8 hours to complete, depending on your pace. While this trail can be challenging due to the nearly 1000m of elevation gain, I found it relatively safe thanks to the well-maintained track, including handrails and support.

The first kilometer of the trail is truly epic, with dramatic staircases hugging the ridgeline. When clouds descend, this section creates an otherworldly atmosphere. After 45 mins of hiking, you'll reach a steep staircase carved into the rock, that goes around Pico das Torres. The staircase leads to a connecting ridge, acting as a bridge to Pico Ruivo.

As you continue along this bridge-ridge, you'll encounter tunnels drilled into the mountains. Be sure to have a headlamp or phone torch to navigate through them, as the longest tunnel is around 150m. Along the trail, you'll encounter a variety of flora and fauna, including the beautiful Red-Legged Partridge bird.

The climb to Pico Ruivo is the toughest part of the hike, with a long and steep set of stairs leading up a mountain pass. Weather conditions can change rapidly in Madeira, within 30 mins the whole mountain seems to be covered with dense clouds. Reaching the junction where the mountain hut Casa de Abrigo is located is a delightful milestone, as it signifies that the peak is nearby. From the cafe, it takes about 20 minutes to reach the summit of Pico Ruivo. Though the summit was covered in clouds, occasional clearings offer glimpses of the trail below.

On the return journey, the experience is completely different as clouds swiftly envelop the mountain and trail due to strong winds. It's a surreal sight to witness the flying fog rushing thorugh the mountain pass. One standout section of the hike is the incredible 'Stairway to Heaven.' On cloudy days, this part of the trail becomes incredibly moody and dramatic, making it my absolute favorite.

While the hike is intense, both in and out, it is truly an unforgettable experience. If you in Madeira hiking this trail is a must