Szentendre, Szentendre, Szentendre, oh how I love ye. As I say in the video, Szentendre is a broader theme which, I will explore many times more. The stories here simply jump out at you from every which direction, and there was no possibility whatsoever to try and tackle the town in one episode. I will be making many videos in Szentendre in the months and years and perhaps even decades to come.
Szentendre is a land of painters, and the artistic spirit courses through the town. Along the banks of the Danube, of course, but also through the richly veined brooks with their crystal clear water. Most notably the Bükkös Patak. Did you know that it used to be called the Apors Patak, in the days of King István? It was named for one of his chief military commanders, Apor, who was a staunch loyalist of the Árpáds for decades. That was in the 11th century. But the story of Szentendre goes back way further than that. All the way to the days of the Romans. In fact, way before as well. Just think of the Illyrians, not to mention the Celtic Eraviscii whom the Romans directly replaced. Who knows what other types of primieval man melted in the midst of all the river side magic?
We begin our tour, in fact, amongst the grounds of the Romai Kotár statue park ... where the well attuned visitor to Szentendre can walk amongst Roman gravestones. A better collection of Roman statuary in Hungary, you surely shan't find other than perhaps at the Aquincum museum or Győr. But here, out in the fresh air, beside route 11, it seems somewhat surreal to remember that at one point Szentendre was known as Ulcisia Castra. The Wolf Fort. A farkasvár. Now, we wander up beside a dilapidated mansion, passing along the cobblestones of Paprikabiró utca, or Peppercorn street. This hidden shoulder gives us our first vantage point of the many churches in town.
For Szentendre, more than most places, is a town filled with Templòm.
We'll sweep past a few as we head across the Bükkös and into the heart of the downtown. Dumsta Jenő is the name of the street. And there could not be a more fitting name than he. The first mayor of Szentendre, a Aromanian, Macedo-Bulgarian, Serbian. He had roots all over the Balkans. And he let them grow in this multicultural oasis. For Szentendre is a place with so many different cultures. The Serbs, the Dalmats, the Bulgarians, Greeks, Croats. Balkanites from far and wide have settled here for centuries. It became a safehaven when the Turks exacted their bloody revenge on the southern provinces following eviction from Hungary at the end of the 17th century.
And the German and Slovak and Jewish settlers who followed all painted their brush across the landscape. Of course this has been a Magyar place through the ages. Ever since the Honfoglalas, and before that the Avars and Huns settled down. You can see why. The town is strategically situated, just across from the illustrious Sziget which now bears its same name.
Szentendre is a place for artists and painters and poets and writers and sculptors, designers, illustrators of all sorts. The names are endless:
Imre Szantho, Vajda Lajos, Kovacs Margit, Czöbel Béla, to name but a few.
Szentendre inspires creativity.
And as an artist myself I am forever greatful to the town.
It is a place to be inspired. And I will be for many moons to come.
Can't wait to get back and film all of the glorious things we missed. Or perhaps just sit there at the top of the sun soaked Szamar Hegy, the donkey hill, and write about it.
Szentendre is a place for poetry.
It is a verse, a song, a dream, something smooth and rough and gloriously simple. Szentendre is ours, and we must treat her with respect.
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