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uma-dressmaking-uma.blogspot.com - Fundamentals of tailoring
1. Plain Patch :---In this the seam used is called " counter hem seam " . Here the

size of the sampler 6 " or 6 1/ 2 " square and that of the patch piece is 3 " or

3 1/ 2 " square . The patch can either be a square or rectangle . The patch piece

should be 3 /4 " to 1 " bigger than the hole all round . The patch should be

as inconspicuous as possible and this can be done efficiently as possible using

suitable stitches , threads and working neatly with matching material . The patch

piece should be of the same color , strength and appearance . If necessary

the patch piece may be washed several times to bring it to the same strength

and color . The thread used should be cotton on cotton , wool on wool , silk on silk

. The selvedge and weft threads of the patch piece and the sampler must be made

to match correctly .To work a plain patch place the right side of the patch piece

over the wrong side of the sampler and straight by the selvedge threads . The weft

threads must be straight by the weft threads of the sampler . Place the patch piece

over the sampler taking care to see that the patch piece falls over the centre of the

hole. Fold 1 / 4 " of an inch alround and then pin the selvedge sides first . Next ,

pin the two weft sides . Tack close to the edge starting in the middle of a selvedge

side .
fell the patch neatly alround , starting either in the corner of one of the sides or

from the middle of one of the selvedge sides . The latter is better as it lessens bulk

in the corners and prevents the corner from getting out of shape .


FINISHING OF THE HOLE :---Turn the right side of the work towards

the worker and make diagonal creases across the patch from the

corners .Measure 1/4 " on the diagonal creases from the corners. Insert

the scissors into the hole and cut along the diagonal creases up to

these points , all of which should be straight . Fold back these flaps of
the hole level with these points and cut . Snip these along the

diagonals

1 / 6 " above the corners of the hole . Fold these raw edges , under

starting with the selvedge side and using the needle to turn back the

edges carefully at the corners . Tack close to the edge then finish the

adjecent side and continue thus till all the sides are completed .

Holding the right side of the work with the patch towards the worker

,top - sew or hem the edge of the hole of the patch , being careful to

flattern eachside .