Скачать или смотреть Swell waves breaking on Swanpool Beach, Cornwall.

Swell waves arriving and breaking at Swanpool Beach, near Falmouth, Cornwall. The video firstly depicts waves breaking over granite boulders, emplaced as part of rock armourment protecting the coast from wave attack and erosion. The last part of the video shows waves breaking on the sandy part of the beach. The beach is relatively steep and reflective, and the waves typically break as plunging breakers. The continuous footage allows for the viewer to estimate the wave period (time between wave crests) and to note how the effect of swash and backwash interaction influences the nature of the breaking waves - its height and inundation up the beach.

For further reading, see Chapter 2 in my book:

S. K. Haslett (2016) Coastal Systems, 3rd Edition. University of Wales Press, Cardiff, 230pp. Available from : http://www.uwp.co.uk/editions/9781783...