Istanbul, Athens, and the Greek Isles Episode 11: Churches of Athens

Istanbul, Athens, and the Greek Isles
June 2024
Episode 11: Churches of Athens

In a pleasant park near our hotel is the Church of Saint Dimitrios Loubardiaris, a small, atmospheric, 12th c. chapel with early 18th c. frescoes that were uncovered during restoration work in the 1950s. The front desk clerk at our hotel was baptized here as a child.

The Monastiraki neighborhood is named for the monastery which once stood here, the last remnant of which is the Church of the Virgin Mary Pantanassa. This 10th c. chapel is recessed three feet below modern street level as testimony to its age.

Two blocks east is the 11th c. Church of Panagia Kapnikarea with stunning frescoes adorning almost every surface.

The tiny Church of Theotokos Gorgoepikoos and Saint Eleutherius dates to the 12th c. and incorporates materials taken from earlier structures, some of which date back to Roman and Greek antiquity. Locals refer to it as "Little Metropolis" because it is literally in the shadow of the much larger Metropolitan Church of the Annunciation, which is beautiful if not particularly historic (19th c.).

The Church of the Archangels is near the Roman Agora — you can see its small dome from the Agora’s entrance arch.

The Church of the Apostle Philip celebrates Athens’ connection to this disciple of Jesus. According to local tradition, Philip spent the last two years of his life in Athens, following up on Paul’s unsuccessful efforts to found a church here. He died in Athens as a martyr, which is why this church is dedicated to him, although this site itself has no direct connection to him.

The Church of the Dormition of the Virgin Mary Chrysospileotissa is another lovely 19th c. church. In contrast to the Catholic belief in the bodily assumption of Mary into heaven, Orthodox Christians simply believe in the dormition of Mary, i.e., that the Virgin died without suffering in a state of spiritual peace.

One of the most curious sights in downtown Athens is the diminutive Church of Hagia Dynamis tucked under the corner of a modern office building. When the Greek government wanted the property for their new Education Department headquarters, the Orthodox church declined to let this tiny 16th c. chapel be demolished — so the government built the new building around it. The church also played a role in Greece’s fight for independence. The Turks had turned the church into a munitions factory, forcing Greek workers to manufacture bullets, but those workers heroically smuggled some of the ammunition out to their own forces.

The Church of Holy Trinity is simply another neighborhood church that we happened upon. Dating to the 11th c., it is unusual for its belltower which stands separate from the rest of the church building.

Another popular neighborhood is the Plaka district with it's many cobblestone pedestrian streets lined with shops and restaurants. Here we found the 11th c. Church of Saint Nicholas Rangavas, one of the city’s oldest churches, boasting beautiful religious decoration and Byzantine architecture.

The Church of the Holy Unmercenaries celebrates early Christian physicians and healers who, contrary to the custom of the day, did not accept payment for their good deeds.

The video ends with a couple of still photos taken by Pam.