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0:00:00 Intro
0:01:45 Removing Radiator
0:06:06 Positioning Power Tank
0:07:48 Drilling Hole Outside
0:11:25 Making Up Power Tank
0:14:45 Altering Water Main
0:16:30 Bypass Pipework
0:20:55 Connecting Up Power Tank
0:27:00 Filling And Testing

Welcome back to the channel on today’s video. I’ll be called out to a customers house because they have some low water pressure issues. This house has a shared watermain with other properties and when somebody else opens up their taps their water supply get severely reduced so today I’m gonna be fitting something which are hopefully solve that issue. The products are gonna be fitting is called a power tank. This is a big store tank of water with a variable speed pump and the idea behind this is that it will give the customers a separate water supply. The tank can deliver up to 9 bar in pressure and should be able to cope with anything what the house needs.

We’re gonna be position in the tank in the corner of the room, but first we’re gonna have to remove a radiator as it’s in the way so we drain the central heating system down move the radiator out the way and get a power attack in place to start looking how to pipe it up . The only two points we need to worry about with a power tank is the cold feed which is fed from a float valve and an overflow pipe which needs to go outside. The problem when working in an old cottage is that the walls are super thick so we’re gonna have to use a core hole to get the pipe terminating safely outside.

The watermain comes up in avoid in the wall, so we’re gonna have to do some publications and we’ll all be fitting a new Aquabion water conditioning filter and this should help with limescale issues inside the water tank.  because this system requires a bypass there’s a little bit of pipework needs to be done so we’re gonna be changing the stop tap and drop it down lower so I got more space with the new stock installed. I can fit the valve as assembly above it with a new filter. The assembly consists of two isolation valves going to the power tank and out of the power tank with a double check valve isolator in the middle this is so we can bypass the tank if it ever has a problem and get them back onto the water pressure from before that gives us full control on the whole system.

After making up the fittings on top of the tank, I’m using press fit fittings in copper and mlcp. The mlcp is used because on top of the tank there is a little bit of clay and that will help with vibrations allowing it to flex a little bit and not putting strain on the fittings and the tank. For press, I’m using the Ridgid 251 and the fittings are from Viega. I’m using the best materials possible as this gives will ensure the system lasts a very long time.

After turning the water means onto the tank and giving it a good test the hot water is dramatically improved but still looks like it could be held back due to going through a combination boiler. These have heat exchanges inside which are prone to blocking from limescale. I’m sure if we want this perfect and Max potential than a new one of them would really help the system perform at its best. I’ve set the pressure to 4 bar this is more than enough for a domestic house and now when the neighbours use water they won’t be affected because they’re on their own dedicated water source

I hope you like today’s video. I wanna give a big shout out to power tank Ridgid And Viega who have helped support this install. If you liked this video please give it a like, drop a comment down below and subscribe if you are new.
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