10 tips for 'cuttings'. The difference between the right way and the wrong way.

What are cuttings!?
Cuttings are a vegetative propagation technique where a portion of the plant, without roots or other supportive structures, is taken to induce adventitious roots or shoots. This includes “stem cuttings,” “leaf cuttings,” and “root cuttings.” Generally, a part of the branch is cut off and inserted into the soil, and from the part of the branch that is in the soil, roots start to grow, allowing you to create new clone plants. It’s a very easy method to propagate plants, making it an excellent option for producing a significant number of tree saplings if you intend to do so.

The Mechanism Behind the Cutting Process．
When you cut off part of a tree branch and insert it into the soil, a tissue called callus forms to seal the cut, preventing the internal moisture from escaping and creating a barrier against bacteria and other pathogens. Following this, a structure known as the “root primordia” begins to form slightly above the callus, eventually leading to root development. The plant hormone auxin plays a crucial role in the formation of this callus and root primordia, and it is synthesized in the leaves attached to the branch. The synthesized auxin flows downwards, promoting the formation of callus and root primordia at the base of the cutting. This is why it’s essential to leave some leaves on the cutting to improve the chances of successful rooting.

Tips for Successful Cuttings．
1. Use young branches, about 1 to 2 years old.
2. Choose branches that have not undergone flower bud differentiation.
3. Avoid keeping overly young leaves; instead, retain about 1/4 of the mature leaves.
4. Do not expose the cutting to direct sunlight; instead, provide 50-80% shade.
5. Avoid direct wind exposure but ensure the environment is not completely sealed.
6. Cut just below a node, as roots tend to form more readily near nodes.
7. Use tall containers that allow roots to grow deep.
8. Maintain the soil temperature at 25-30°C to promote rooting. Spring or fall tends to yield the best results.
9. Keeping the base of the cutting in a darker environment will improve the rooting rate.
10. Prevent drying out by frequently misting the cuttings.

Deeper Understanding of Cuttings．
The rooting ability of cuttings is generally better with younger branches. Seedlings immediately after germination have a high level of juvenility, making them easier to root. As trees age, this juvenility decreases, making it harder for them to root. Larger trees that have undergone severe pruning tend to produce vigorous new shoots or suckers, which are more likely to root successfully. Conversely, as branches extend further from the main trunk, they are more likely to be focused on reproductive growth, which decreases their rooting potential. Therefore, it’s better to select young branches close to the main trunk that are less likely to bloom.

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When preparing branches for cuttings, leave about 1/4 of mature leaves rather than young ones. Young leaves lack the ability to perform photosynthesis effectively and may consume nutrients from the branch, which could otherwise be used for rooting. Furthermore, branches that quickly produce new leaves after being cut can hinder rooting.

When new leaves emerge after the cutting is made, it may seem like the cutting is successful, but branches are programmed to unfold any existing buds. In the early stages, the unfolding leaves are using up the nutrients stored inside the cutting. Therefore, these precious nutrients are being used for leaf production rather than root development, which often means that rooting has not yet occurred.

Additionally, if too many leaves develop, the cutting may dry out before rooting, as the increased transpiration can lead to dehydration. It’s better if the buds grow slowly, allowing the roots to develop smoothly. Ideally, the apical bud should not grow aggressively, and the cutting should retain only the mature leaves initially left intact, which positively influences rooting.

Furthermore, the container in which you place the cutting should be tall and deep. Having deep roots allows for better growth later on.

By leaving some leaves on the cutting, the cutting can continue photosynthesizing, allowing carbohydrates to accumulate at the base, which aids in rooting. If the cutting drops its leaves shortly after being placed, it’s a sign that it won’t root.

The starch content in the cutting is less than 1% immediately after insertion but increases to more than 5% after about 5 weeks, which is thought to promote rooting. Photosynthesis is necessary to produce this starch. Therefore, it’s crucial not to over-shade the cutting; it should be exposed to very weak light rather than complete darkness to enable photosynthesis. Carbon dioxide is also needed, so avoid completely sealing the container—allow some airflow.

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