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Скачать или смотреть CV Axle Rebuild/Oil Seal Replacement | 1990 Toyota Sera

  • SideProjects1234
  • 2026-01-24
  • 17
CV Axle Rebuild/Oil Seal Replacement | 1990 Toyota Sera
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Описание к видео CV Axle Rebuild/Oil Seal Replacement | 1990 Toyota Sera

When I was researching how to rebuild the CV axle on my 1990 Toyota Sera, I couldn’t find many videos on YouTube that answered my questions. I hope this video can shed some light on the more confusing aspects of an axle rebuild/oil seal replacement.

I am by no means an experienced mechanic, so please leave a comment if I made a mistake or could have done something differently. That being said, I finished this project a couple months prior to the posting of this video, and the car has driven just fine.


Materials/Consumables:

-Inner axle joint
Part number: 43403-12040
-Boot kit
Part number: 04438-12371
-Oil seal
Part number: 90311-34023
-PB blaster
-Brake cleaner
-Dexron II compatible ATF fluid
-Shop towels (lots!)
-Disposable gloves
-Trash bags
-Cotter pins
3.2*40mm for tie rod
4*50mm for axle nut


Tools:

-Jack
-Jack stands, additional support preferred
-Screwdrivers of various sizing
-Eye protection
-Ratchet/sockets 30mm, 21mm, 17mm
-Breaker bar
-Impact gun (optional)
-Torque wrench
-Heavy hammer (cross peen works well)
-Mallet
-Small hammer is helpful for clamp crimps
-Bench vice
-Shears
-Tin snips
-Box cutter
-Drain pan
-Needle nose pliers
-Bucket/bin
-Crowbar
-Tray to collect hardware (preferably magnetic)
-Retaining clip tool
-Oil seal puller
-Measuring cup
-A jar or other container helps in the measuring process
-Bungee cord
-PVC 3/4” for spider and 1.5” coupling for seal (you’ll need to shave down the edges of the 1.5” to fit between the lip of the seal. Of course, if you have speciality seal installers or the right size sockets, use those.)
-A clamp tool, depending on the kind of clamps you’re using (you don’t need a special tool for the clamps in this kit.)


Torque specs:

Tie rod: 36 ftlbs
Control arm: 59 ftlbs
Axle nut: 137 ftlbs

The control arm needs to be torqued under operating load (i.e. when the car is on the ground) to prevent premature wear of suspension components. There isn’t much space to do this once the vehicle is lowered, but you can use a jack underneath the rotor to simulate ride height. Just make sure the jack isn’t hitting the dust shield.


Other helpful videos:

On clamp orientation:
   • How to use a CV Boot Band/Clamp Tool  

On the full rebuild:
   • How to Rebuild CV Axles (4runner GX470 GX460)  

On the C-clip trick
   • ❌ STOP Fighting CV Axles — Do THIS Instead...  


Notes on refilling the transmission fluid:

I got very inconsistent readings on the dipstick immediately after adding back the fluid that we measured. It would go from showing very low to overfilled, so it was difficult to get an idea of the true level.

I was told this could have been a result of leaving the axle out overnight, potentially introducing air into the system, but that it would work its way out in a few heat cycles. Sure enough, I was getting a solid band of fluid after 2 days of driving.

Make sure you’re only checking the level after at least 15 minutes of city driving, since the fluid expands and distributes differently than at idle. Toyotas are forgiving, so it’s ok to do these test drives even if your fluid turns out to be a bit low. But if you hear an abnormal sound, or if the gears slip, you’ll definitely need to add more fluid before driving.

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