Creatures of Waste, Pitch 1, 5.10c, Redpoint, 4k POV/Drone footage

Описание к видео Creatures of Waste, Pitch 1, 5.10c, Redpoint, 4k POV/Drone footage

My favorite route ive sent so far! I followed on this last year and thought it would be years before I lead it. FALSE. I Lead it 9 months later. My first attempt I had to take on my #3 Cam, But my second go was the full redpoint. Felt very proud. Shot with my iphone, gopro hero 9, and mavic 3, DJI drone.


Creatures of Waste
The 1st pitch is steep and fun with ample pro, and most climbers stop there. This pitch climbs like a sport route with gear and stays dry in the rain.

P1, either start on a small slab ramp or uphill on a ledge system that leads to the flake midway up the climb. From the direct start, pull some thin moves to gain large ledge. Pull a small roof to gain the flake ramp. Follow the flake ramp to a blocky section with a bolt. Watch for loose rock here. Clip the bolt and move to the short finger crack. From the finger crack move back to the steep flake and crank to the anchor. 5.10c

Location Suggest change
From where the North Face trail meets the wall, turn left and head up hill for about 20'. Look for a small slabby apron at the base. Look up for the obvious up and right leaning flake on a steep face. Rappel the route with one 60m for P1 and two ropes for all other pitches.
Protection Suggest change
P1 only, TCU's to #3 Camalot, tri-cams or doubles in the mid range to sew it up. P2-4 Standard NC Aid rack. All pitches are bolted.

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