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Скачать или смотреть Transplanting my Early Long Purple Eggplant / Aubergine Variety Seedlings!

  • The Paxton Creek Garden
  • 2020-04-05
  • 1596
Transplanting my Early Long Purple Eggplant / Aubergine Variety Seedlings!
EggplantAubergineHowtogrowgrowgardengardeningraisedbedgarden
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Here is How I Transplanting my Early Long Purple Eggplant / Aubergine Variety Seedlings!

The fruits of Eggplant Early Long Purple are long and slightly bulbous. Near maturity the eggplant will deepen to a rich purple. These slender fruits are low in calories, high in vitamins A, B, and C. It is very easy to slice the meaty fruits these plants produce very prolifically.

Eggplant has been cultivated for more than 1500 years throughout
India and China. Eggplant, a member of the Solanaceae (nightshade)
family, is a tender plant and therefore must be grown during the hot
summer months in the US. There are several types to choose from,
but all need warm temperatures to thrive and fruit.
Eggplant Types:
Globe–Pear shaped (often called American), dark purple. Larger and
thicker than the Italian varieties.
Asian–Long and narrow shape; delicate flavor; low seed count; range
of purple shades, green or white.
Graffiti–Similar to Italian varieties; mottled white and purple skin;
sweeter.
Indian–Very small; dark purple; tender.
Italian–Similar to but smaller than the Globe; dark purple; tender;
sweeter than most.
Growing Basics:
• Soil–eggplant prefers a soil pH around 6.5 and temperatures of
70-85°F (80°F for germination). Tolerates 65-90°F (70°F nights is
needed for bloom set).
• Seed longevity–if properly stored, the seeds should be viable for
about 4 years.
• Spacing–18 to 24 inches apart with rows 2 to 3 feet apart
• Companion planting–Incompatibility–None, however planting near others in the same family (tomatoes, potatoes, peppers)
may accelerate diseases and pests. Companions–Beans, peas,
tomatoes, spinach, peppers, marjoram.
• Water requirements–Fairly drought tolerant, but will be bitter and/
or small if not consistently damp (but avoid over watering for soggy
soil).
• Fertilization–Do not over fertilize with nitrogen, you will get
bushy plants but they will bear a smaller set of fruit. Better
to use a fertilizer with a higher, phosphate and potassium
percentages. Amend soil prior to transplanting into garden;
supplement per product label. Weekly watering with kelp will
assist with plant strength. Amending after flowering will help
extend harvest season.
Planting & Growing:
Seed Sowing–Due to tender nature, start seeds indoors 8-12 weeks
before last frost date. Sow per seed pack depth in damp soilless mix
(Quickroot) to prevent damping off and facilitate easy emergence. To
prevent root disruption at transplanting, plant in individual pots.
Moisten with sprayer or mister. Cover with dome (optional) to prevent
drying out (take off during the day if condensation is building up).
Maintain soil as just moist (overwatering will displace or degrade
seed). Place in an warm area with very good light or under grow
lights. If using heat mats set at 80°F for germination.
After first set of true leaves form, begin to supplement with half
dilution hydrolyzed fish and kelp every 14 days.
Before transplanting to garden, place plants in a sheltered area
outdoors during day and bring in at night to harden off.
Transplanting–Wait until soil is 75-80°F in the morning hours. Select
a sheltered area in full sun. Work soil well and amend per soil report
recommendations or add 1/2 cup balanced vegetable fertilizer in
perimeter. Space 18-24” apart in well drained soil with sufficient depth
for roots. Do not plant deeper than the original soil level.
Water lightly to settle soil. Stake or trellis once plants get heavy with
fruit. Apply mulch (black plastic) to increase yields. Cover plants with
row covers if nights will fall below 50°F. Pinch out early flowers to
allow adequate root formation.
To help improve air circulation and cut down on some of the bushiness
you can prune out suckers that grow below the first fruit set.

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