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Gelato contains only 15% air, is dense in structure, and melts quickly outside the tray; fluffy, stable mounds behind glass (the Italians call this presentation alla montagna) are a cause for concern. Secondly, bright, almost fluorescent colors are not typical of gelato made from natural ingredients; they scream out the use of dyes. For example, it is impossible to achieve the green color of apple gelato, as it oxidizes and turns light brown during processing and pasteurization. A third difference was once pointed out by maestro Sergio Dondoli: ice cream made with inexpensive vegetable oil leaves a noticeable fatty film on the lips. This effect is not observed after a serving of gelato, as it must contain pure milk fat.

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