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Full transcript: https://www.etrailer.com/tv-install-d...
Howdy there, neighbors, Ian with etrailer here. Today we're gonna be taking a look at the Draw-Tite Max-Frame two inch by two inch hitch receiver on our 2015 Audi Q5. Let's get into a couple features of that and then we'll worry about the install. So, for the 2015 Audi Q5, this is gonna be a great option to be able to open up any towable you may wanna put on your vehicle. This neighbor's already got a roof rack, they have a tendency of loading the back of the vehicle, and they're gonna have a small towable back here that we've paired up with some CURT wiring as well. And so our Draw-Tite Max hitch is going to have a capacity up to 5,000 pounds for that tonnage weight pulled.
And then on the tongue weight, meaning the pressure downwards on that tongue, we're looking at 750 pounds for that tongue weight. So, more than enough to be able to take some pressure, but, of course, you'd always want to go into your owner's manual, double-check the weight rating of your particular vehicle, and make sure that number's not lower. And if it is, stick to that lower number. This hitch is going to feature a 5/8 inch pin hole, and it does not come with the pins, so you will need to check out our options on our website when you're ordering your hitch. It is going to have these larger safety chain loops at the bottom, which are fine, for the most part.
I'm not a big fan just because it does cause a little bit of an issue with the clevis types. You can still get 'em on there, but they're just a little more difficult but still very functional. Now measuring from the center of our hitch pin hole out to the edge of the bumper, we are looking at 2 1/2 inches. That'll kind of give you some idea of clearance, as far as any folding accessories you may wanna throw on the back of your Q5. And one more measurement we're gonna look at is gonna be from the ground to the very top edge of the inside of our receiver tube.
And it's just right below 15, maybe at 14 3/4. So, that'll give you a good idea, if you've got any long extensions, as far as accessories, that are sticking out, how well that's going to clear from the ground. Before we hop into the install on this one, I wouldn't say this is all that difficult. It is very time-consuming. We're gonna be inside the vehicle for the majority of it, and we're gonna have to take most of the plastics underneath out.
So, as we do that, just follow along, and I'll be able to help all you DIYers. But if you happen to watch the video and think to yourself, "I don't want to try to tackle this," or, "It's just gonna be too much for me," please do check out the dealer locator on our website. We'd be happy to find you a trained professional in your area that would be happy to put this in place for you. But again, for all those DIYers, let's go ahead and hop into it. We're gonna begin with the tailgate open, and we need to remove the panels here in the back to include any small buckets or anything you've got around that spare tire. (panels thudding) We are gonna be pulling the spare tire and compressor out of the way. Now, to remove that, it does have this compressor attached. So, you'll just wanna squeeze the outside clips of that harness and start to work that down into the hole where it's gonna come up on the spared tire, take the handle loose here, and the whole assembly should come out. Just make sure you're paying attention to this harness, that it doesn't get caught on anything on the way out. (metal clacking) Now we can come to this scuff panel assembly at the tailgate, and we're gonna be pulling up on that, but you do wanna keep in mind, there's an additional harness for the latch that's attached to that. So, we'll just wanna get it loose to start. (scuff panel popping) And once it's loose, we will rock it forward to access the harness. And it's that same exact type of connector that was on the spare tire. You'll just squeeze those two tabs, wiggle that loose, and set this panel aside. On each side of the vehicle, we are gonna be removing the side trim panels as well. Those are T30 Torx bits holding each of those hangers on. So, you'll wanna remove those hangers, and then those panels will come out after. (electric ratchet whirring) (electric ratchet whirring) And once you've got those hooks off of there, you should be able to just pull the panel straight out from both sides,
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