Fuel Filter Replacement

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In this video, we show you how to replace a fuel filter on a 3rd Generation Toyota 4runner (1996-2002) with the 3.4 liter V6 engine. This repair would also be similar for 1st Generation Tacomas (1995-2004) with the 3.4 liter V6 engine. Even if you don't own a 4runner or Tacoma, the information we share and techniques we show could help you out with replacing a fuel filter on your particular vehicle as well.

If you have a 1st Gen Tacoma with the 3.4 liter V6 engine, the fuel filter is in the same spot on the Tacoma near the driver side frame rail under the driver seat. The electrical connection for the fuel pump on the tank however has to be accessed from under the vehicle. There's no secret hatch like there is on the 4runner. The fuel pump power disconnect is on the front of the fuel tank just like the 4runner. If you go under the truck in front of the gas tank fill pipe, look over the top of the driver side frame rail in front of the body mount and you'll see the power connection plug to the fuel pump. There's plenty of room to get your hand in the there and maybe you could depress the power plug with just your finger and be able to remove the plug. If it fights you, you could try a 90 degree bent nose needle nose pliers and that should work. From feeling up there with my hand, the tab on the plug you need to depress faces towards the passenger side of the truck.

If you find disconnecting the power to the fuel pump is too much of a pain in the butt, just take off the gas cap and let the vehicle sit for around 30 minutes. I didn't think at first that taking off the gas cap could effectively depressurize the fuel lines, but it can. If the fittings still feel too tight and think you might strip the fittings, I'd stop and try the power disconnect again because the pressure on the lines is making it harder to break the lines free.

**I failed to expand further the importance of depressurizing the fuel lines before trying to break free the flare nut fittings. When the lines are under pressure, the fittings will be harder to break free. By relieving the line pressure, you'll have an easier time loosening the fittings and this might make the difference between being successful with loosening the fittings and stripping the fittings. Also, with the line under pressure, when you loosen the flare nut fitting, gasoline might squirt out at you and possibly into your face which wouldn't be enjoyable.

**I have also found that removing the gas cap helps depressurize the fuel line from the tank to the fuel filter.

**The FSM suggests putting a little bit of motor oil on the flared tubing end (not on the threads of the nut but on the actual tubing itself) to assist in making a leak-proof connection. I have tried this out and it does work.

**Torque Spec for Fuel System Flare Nut Connections - 21 ft-lbf


*PARTS*
Fuel Filter Part #23300-62030
https://amzn.to/2s01ulp


*Helpful Tools*
If you're looking for other tools not used in this video, check out Timmy's Master Tool List.
https://www.amazon.com/shop/timmythet...

*Double-Sided Screwdriver - (to remove plastic trim screws and fuel pump access cover)
https://amzn.to/2NRcydr


*Straight Needle Nose Pliers - (to assist disconnecting electrical connector to fuel pump)
https://amzn.to/2pQ6yIa


*Flex Head Box End Wrench Set - (to disconnect battery. a very nice super functional set)
https://amzn.to/31x8BOo


*Stubby 3/8” Flex Head Ratchet - (it use to be available for sale separately but now we can only find it as part of this 4-piece set) https://amzn.to/39kQVit

*3/8" Drive 6 Point Metric Standard Socket Set
https://amzn.to/32WIh0M


*3/8” Drive Regular Extension Set
https://amzn.to/2OehCao


*Gear Wrench Flex Head Flare Nut Wrenches - (to disconnect and re-tighten fuel flare nut fittings)
https://amzn.to/2MVWbK8

*Oil Drain Pan - (to catch gasoline)
https://amzn.to/2QK6kh9


*Crowfoot Wrench Set - (in case you wanted to torque the fuel line connections to the proper spec) https://amzn.to/362U9Bo

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