#5463

#5463 Spooky Desert, Landscape Fluid Acrylic Poured & Tilted 7.20.19

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I am using a 12"x 16" stretched canvas. All the paints I use are acrylic paints mixed with additives to help them flow more easily. All my colors are stored and mixed in squeeze bottles for ease of use. I have some containers of paint already containing additives that I will enjoy using, from Arteza, they need to be remixed because they have been sitting for a day. I use them by pouring them directly into the canvas. I also use squeeze bottles of acrylic paints already mixed with additives and squeeze them directly onto the canvas in the land area at the bottom of the canvas first. Most of the colors are gold, copper, and Prussian blue. I move onto the sky area of the canvas pour some Arteza pearls from the containers and add some white metallic all in a puddle similar to the puddle below where I expect the land to be. I tilt the canvas onto an edge catcher. This stops the paint from flowing off the canvas. The paint pooled on the edge catcher is the catalyst for changing the patterns and when the paint is pooled I tilt the canvas back in the opposite direction and allow the paint to flow back into the design. This works for both the sky and land areas because the agitation caused by the flowing wave of paint encourages a striped and or patterned look. I tilt the canvas back and forth watching where the mass of paint moving as I tilt it and choosing where to allow it to rest. I use a small silicone spatula to remove residual paint from the edge catcher and add and smooth/swipe/integrate /manipulate... those colors into the appropriate areas of the "scape".I cover some of the canvas edges using residual paint applied with my fingers. I use a bamboo skewer to drag tendrils of paint to create the impression of tree and shrub branches and also to manipulate any areas I think need a tweak. The sharp end should be used with much caution, dragging is best when done gently. The dull end of the skewer is an excellent dotting and spiraling tool. I utilize various small spatulas to make final adjustments and I am done and very happy with my spooky desert.

My "pouring" mixture is 3/4 Floetrol with 1/4 (estimated) GAC800 from "Golden" (prevents cracking and adds shine to dry artwork.. Mix it thoroughly. Depending on the paint the amounts of color can vary. I like to begin with a half-pouring mixture and half-color. After that is mixed VERY thoroughly I add more pouring mixture until the viscosity (thickness) is like warm hone. If I want it thinner I add more Pouring mixture. If the color is not strong enough I add more pigment. When mixing colors my amounts are always estimated and then altered to get the right consistency. I use plastic squeeze bottles with measurements on the side. I add a marble to my bottle to aid in the mixing process. Marbles work well but exercise caution if you end up with more than one they will shatter in the mixture eventually. It's imperative (Important) that all mixture be shaken thoroughly once before using in any session the first time! The consistency is usually medium "body" weight, but other weights are usable with minor adjustments. All my acrylic paints are mixed in advance and contained and stored in squeeze bottles. If you are not using squeeze bottles, I suggest using a container that has a tight-fitting lid or sealing the container with Glad sticky wrap. I have often used the 4oz size plastic deli containers, and the paint keeps for a long time in them, but you must stir before using the mix again. Floetrol and other flow agents will rise to the top between uses. None of my acrylic paint has any added silicone. To create the pearlescent effects seen in most of my artworks, I use "Golden's" Iridescent pearl "Fine" added to colors. I add a good squirt directly into whatever I am mixing in. I recommend experimenting to find out how much is enough for your ideal shimmer.

Every day I learn new things. I will never stop experimenting and I am happy to share what I discover with you.

#5451 wet. shown in this video