2007 4WD Toyota 4Runner | 3" Front Lift with Sway Bar & Diff Drop Brackets

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This video features a 3" Front Leveling Kit for a 2007 Toyota 4Runner!
If you'd like more information on kit featured in this tutorial, click the link below or give us a call at 1-888-810-6791!
http://supremesuspensions.com/product...
Check out the rest of our YouTube Channel for more information on install videos along with some tips and tricks for off-road life hacks!


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Produced / Edited by: Sergio Guiducci - @SGxPhoto
FAQ's:
-Why did I receive a spacer that is not as thick as the lift that I ordered?
We market our kits by the amount of lift that will be gained and not the thickness of the spacer. Due to the geometry of your truck’s suspension, the suspension will be lifted by a significantly larger amount than the strut spacer is thick, in many cases as much as double. We strive to offer the maximum amount of lift possible with the minimum alterations to your vehicle so as not to compromise ride quality or reliability.
-Do I need longer shocks with this kit?
Longer shocks are not required for this kit. Vehicle manufacturers do, however, recommend that shocks be replaced in intervals as low as 50,000 miles. If your shocks have high miles, it is recommended to replace them while installing the lift kit.
-What kit should I buy to level my truck?
The best way to accurately level your truck is to measure the distance from the ground to the top of your front and rear wheel wells. Subtract those two numbers and the difference will be the amount of lift you will need to level your truck.
-Do I need an alignment after installing this kit?
Whenever the suspension of a vehicle is altered, it is always recommended to perform an alignment to ensure proper handling and to prevent premature tire wear.
2007 4WD Toyota 4Runner Transcript: Hey folks, Tim from Supreme Suspensions here and with us today is a 2007 Toyota 4Runner. Now if you’ve been reading my blog, you’ll know that this is one of the most versatile and well-liked SUVs on the market. This one here has a four liter V6 and four wheel drive. We’ve got a ton of parts to try out on it so let’s go hit the shop.
Once you get the wheels off, disconnect the wheel speed sensor from the back of the hub and unclip the wiring.
Don’t forget the bracket on the control arm.
Undo the brake line from the hub assembly.
Next up is the brake caliper. You can leave the line connected but make sure it doesn’t get kinkedor stretched.
Then you’re gonna want to go after the sway bar link.
It’s tough to see but make sure that you have the sway bar supported before you drop the mounts.
Disconnect the lower ball joint from the hub assembly by pulling the two outer bolts.
Next, you’re going to unbolt the strut from the control arm.
Here, you’ll need to mark the alignment cams on the control arm so that it can go back together in the same spot.
Now loosen those bolts just enough for the control arm to swing down.
At this point, you can undo those upper strut mount nuts.
Wiggle that strut assembly down and out of the truck.
Over at the bench, slide that lift spacer onto the strut and torque it down with the factory nuts to 47 foot pounds.
Slide the strut back into the truck and secure the upper mount with the supplied bolts to 47 foot pounds.
Attach the strut to the lower control arm and run the nuit down to 100 foot pounds.
Attach the ball joint assembly to the bottom of the steering knuckle and tighten the bolts to 166 foot pounds each.
Tighten those control arm bolts to 100 foot pounds while taking care to align those marks from earlier.
Plug the wheel speed sensor back in and reattach those little plastic clips.
Attach the included sway bar drop kit to the frame with the factory bolts run down to 30 foot pounds.
This helps you line up the sway bar since the factory brackets have notched lobes on the front side.
Once it’s in place, run all four bolts down to 30 foot pounds.
Now you can reattach the sway bar end links and tighten the nuts to 52 foot pounds.
Remove the front skid plate as well as the front bolts from the rear skid plate. Note that the bolts are recessed and can be a little tricky to find.
Install the smaller included spacers between the rear skid plate and the frame. Tighten those bolts to twenty foot pounds.
Remove the front differential bolts. Note that there are nuts on top of the crossmember that will need to be held in place.
Slide the included diff drop spacers between the differential and the crossmemeber. Secure them with the included hardware tightened to 100 foot pounds.
At this point, you can throw the wheels back on. Run those lug nuts down to 76 foot pounds and you’re good to go.