Скачать или смотреть Best Cheap 3D Printer 2020: XYZprinting, Flashforge, Polaroid and More | BUYING GUIDE

THE BEST FOR CONSUMERS, SCHOOLS, COMMUNITY CENTERS
XYZprinting da Vinci Mini
https://amzn.to/2XsNVrE
THE BEST FOR EXPERIMENTERS LOOKING FOR TWO-COLOR OUTPUT
XYZprinting da Vinci Jr. 2.0 Mix
https://amzn.to/39WjzD3
THE BEST FOR 3D PRINTING NEWBIES
Flashforge Finder 3D Printer
https://amzn.to/33txbEE
THE BEST FOR 3D PRINTING DABBLERS OKAY WITH SMALL OBJECTS
Polaroid PlaySmart 3D Printer
https://amzn.to/39YxAjJ
THE BEST FOR BUDGET-STRAPPED FIRST-TIMERS
Monoprice Voxel 3D Printer
https://amzn.to/3fp6XW8
THE BEST FOR FREEHAND EXPRESSION
WobbleWorks 3Doodler Create+
https://amzn.to/3kgfD4z
What to Look for in a Cheap 3D Printer
The big difference is the change that has come to the cheaper models. Here in 2020, many of those ornery 3D-printing issues have been resolved (most of the time, anyway), even for consumer and bargain-priced 3D printers. Automatic print-bed leveling is the norm, and you can remove 3D-printed objects from heated and/or flexible build plates with a minimum of coaxing. Most 3D printer manufacturers have either developed and refined their own software, or have adapted an open-source printing platform such as Cura.

What separates more expensive 3D printers from cheap ones ("cheap" defined as $500 or less, for the purposes of this article) is often a select group of features. These include the build volume, the type of frame, the varieties of supported filament, the software, and the connectivity mix. Let's run through those in turn.
What's the Right Build Volume for a 3D Printer?
A 3D printer’s build volume is the maximum dimensions (HWD) of a part that it can print. (I say “a part” because a 3D-printed object can consist of multiple parts that are printed, then glued or otherwise pieced together.) While the smallest build volume of any 3D printer we have tested is 3.9 by 3.9 by 4.9 inches, we consider any build volume smaller than 6 by 6 by 6 inches to be small, any between that and 10 by 10 by 10 inches as medium, and any printer with at least one build dimension of more than 10 inches as having a large build volume.
As a general rule, inexpensive 3D printers have small build volumes, while more expensive ones have larger build volumes. This depends in part on the type of printer. Closed-frame 3D printers tend to have small build volumes, while open-frame printers, lacking as rigid a physical structure, often have relatively large build volumes for the price. You'll want to weigh the build volume against the kinds of objects you will print.

Should I Get an Open-Frame or Closed-Frame 3D Printer?
Which brings us to the frame "form factor" question: open-frame versus closed-frame. Closed-frame 3D printers are boxlike devices, with a rigid base, walls (with a see-through door in front), and top. Among their advantages? They muffle the operating noise, as well as reduce the odor from melted filament (which is potentially an issue with ABS plastic), and they provide some protection for people or pets who might inadvertently touch the hot extruder. A downside: They tend to have smaller build volumes than open-frame 3D printers, which have fewer (often, no) walls to constrict them.
Low-cost 3D printers include both open-frame and closed-frame models, as well as a few stereolithography printers. If a relatively large build volume is a priority, you’re likely to get more bang for the buck with an open-frame model. Open-frames do have some clear downsides by definition: They tend to be noisy, emit odors when certain plastics are melted, and provide little protection for someone who might touch the hot extruder.

Also, recognize some potential negatives of open frames, depending on the model. Some require assembly, being essentially kits, and most require more setup care than a closed-frame printer, plus more maintenance to keep them running smoothly. Still, these very traits should not deter—and may even appeal to—hobbyists and DIY folks.
What Should I Look for in 3D Printer Software and Connectivity?
Gone are the days when tinkerers had to cobble together several different programs to get a 3D printer to run. Manufacturers either include their own 3D printing program or modify an existing platform such as the open-source Cura, and gone are the days when you had to download the programs.