Yamaha MT-07 & Tracer 700 Full 20k Dealer Service

Full 20.000km Service on Yamaha MT-07 Tracer 700 2016 variant. Naked Bike MT-07 is mostly identical, except some differences in fairings and suspension. Workshop manual says doing a valve clearance check at 40.000km, but I was curious and checked. Exhaust valves were adjusted, as clearance was on the lower end.

More information about getting the camshafts out and back in:
The manual states to get cylinder 1 in exhaust TDC (cams are pressing down on both valves) before pulling out the camshafts . Unscrew the bolts on the outside of the bearing blocks first and do it evenly. Only a few rotations for each bolt on one side and then switch to the other so you don't put too much tension only on one side.
After you swapped out the shims, oil all bearing block bolts and put oil on every rotating surface of the camshafts that have contact to other parts then install the exhaust camshaft with its bearing block first, putting the chain on it making sure it's under tension from the exhaust side, then sliding the intake camshaft into the chain and secure it with its bearing block too while both marks on the camshaft gears are already correctly aligned to the sealing surface of the head. It is important that you make sure the crankshaft and camshafts are aligned correctly with their markings and the chain between the camshaft gears has no slack.
While you tighten the bearing block screws evenly, it can happen that one camshaft will slip out of alignment. That's why I made the makeshift tool. With it I can rotate the intake camshaft back in place without loosening the bearing block in case it gets pushed out of alignment by the valves. Also with this tool I can move the intake camshaft just enough to get rid of any slack in the cam chain by getting the teeth of the camshaft gear in the right position on the cam chain. Sometimes if the cam gear can jump half a tooth it's enough to get rid of any play on the chain between the cam gears.

I pulled the camshafts out while cylinder 1 was in TDC compression stroke. Manual tells you otherwise. You can do it both ways but manual procedure is recommended. Just remember which position the camshafts had before you removed them and do what the manual tells. ^^

Some more information if you don't have a manual and want to find out if cylinder 1 is in TDC (top dead center) and the right rotation of the crankshaft. Applies to all bikes:

TDC positions can be found out by sticking a long screwdriver in the spark plug hole of cylinder 1 (cylinder 1 is always on the opposite side of the clutch) and watch it going up and down while you crank the crankshaft. If your screwdriver got pushed up to the highest point, you hit TDC. 4-Stroke engines have always two TDCs. Compression stroke and exhaust stroke. Watch cams on the camshafts. If the cams are operating the valves, you are in exhaust stroke. Watch this video here to get a clue.

For finding out the right rotational direction of the crankshaft, rotate it while you have a look at the exhaust and the intake valves of cylinder 1. When you hit TDC exhaust stroke, the intake valves should open first and the exhaust valves close. If it happens in this order, you cranked in the right direction.

Things I didn't check are some bolts and nuts and I haven't made an oil/filter change. Wasn't necessary anyway.

- 1000km Service - 250€
- Oil/Filter Change @6000km - 36€
- 10.000km Service @12.0000km - 270€
- Oil change @14.000km - 20€
- New tires @15.000km - 210€
- Brake Fluid change after 2yrs - 0€
- 20.000km Service - 66€
834€

No defects by now.