Should Climbers Be Worried about Scapular Winging? (Scapular Dyskinesis)

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// TIMESTAMPS //
00:00 Why This Matters to You
00:59 Scapular Winging vs. Scapular Dyskinesia
02:26 What is "Normal" Scapular Movement?
03:04 What is ABNORMAL Scapular Movement?
04:27 How to Diagnose Scapular Dyskinesis
09:11 Why You Shouldn't Obsess About This
10:50 Now What Should You Do?

// SHOW NOTES //
Episode 102

INTRODUCTION

“Scapular winging” is somewhat of a hot topic in the climbing community, and considering how hyper-focused we are on our back and shoulder muscles, it’s easy to see why our scapulas have become so heavily scrutinized.

Strong, mobile shoulders are absolutely essential for climbers and the scapulas are a key part of that system, so it can be quite concerning when we think there’s an issue.

On top of that, this subject can get really confusing, because most of the time when people say “scapular winging” what they actually mean is “scapular dyskinesis.” Informally, the terms are used interchangeably, but in a medical sense that’s not the case and we should know how to differentiate them.

So in this video I want to demystify what these terms actually mean and how serious they are. I’ll also provide you the tools and insight to examine your own shoulders so you can see if this is something you should be concerned about.

SCAPULAR WINGING VS SCAPULAR DYSKINESIS


In the formal sense, “scapular winging” refers to a rare, often debilitating disorder. It’s caused by a failure of the stabilizing tissues that keep the scapula anchored to the rib cage (thorax), creating a prominent, wing-like protrusion. This leads to significant functional limitations, including the inability to elevate the shoulder beyond about 90 degrees.

Scapular dyskinesia, on the other hand, is a broad term used to describe a plethora of dysfunctional or abnormal movement of the shoulder blade. In fact, “dyskinesis,” the singular form of “dyskinesia,” literally just means “bad movement” (“dys” = bad, “kinesis” = movement). As a result, the severity of a scapular dyskinesis can range quite a bit, from “I don’t even feel it” to “mild pinch” to “holy crap I can’t climb.”

Based on those definitions, notice that scapular winging is something you can see while the shoulder is static or at rest, whereas scapular dyskinesia is defined by abnormal movement.

This is an important distinction, because it means scapular dyskinesia cannot be properly identified by simply observing your shoulder at rest. While static tests may lend some insight, a true diagnosis requires analysis of the scapula during movement, making things a bit more complicated.

Now, just for fun, I want to know: do you think it’s okay for “scapular winging” and “scapular dyskinesis” to be used interchangeably by climbers, or do you think we should keep them separate? Let me know down in the comments!


SO WHAT IS “NORMAL” SCAPULAR MOVEMENT?

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// DISCLAIMER //
As always, exercises and rehab programs are to be performed assuming your own risk and should not be done if you feel you are at risk for injury. See a medical professional if you have concerns before starting a new training or recovery program.

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Written and Produced by Jason Hooper and Emile Modesitt

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