How to Fix Scapular Dyskinesis for Climbers (Shoulder Blade "Winging")

Links to website, social media, t-shirts, and more: https://linktr.ee/hoopersbeta
// SPECIAL THANKS to The Wall Climbing Gym. Check them out at: https://www.thewallclimbinggym.com/

// MORE INFO //
For more content like this as well as in-depth blog writeups and links to research articles, go here: https://www.hoopersbeta.com/

// PRIVATE PT CONSULTS //
Want an in-person or e-consult with Jason? Go here: https://www.hoopersbeta.com/private-s...

// MEMBERSHIPS //
Join the HB fam to get access to various perks, like priority comment responses:
   / @hoopersbeta  

// SHOP & SUPPORT (affiliate links - not sponsored) //
- Hooper's Beta T-shirts: https://teespring.com/stores/hoopersbeta
- Favorite on-the-go food: https://bit.ly/3InYwtu
- Resistance bands: https://amzn.to/3mRUwFX
- Crane scale: https://amzn.to/3wuLDrp
- Lacrosse/massage ball: https://amzn.to/3hot8OD
- Stainless steel massage tool (or just use a butter knife): https://amzn.to/2L5F1xa
- Adjustable dumbbells (pricey but so useful!): https://amzn.to/38FPG9Q
- Emile's favorite climbing shoes: https://amzn.to/3hpC1Yq
- Jason's favorite climbing shoes: https://amzn.to/2WS8QE0
- Our favorite chalk: https://amzn.to/3pqTa6T
- MFD/cupping set: https://amzn.to/3dAT9ZN
- BOSU Balance Trainer: https://amzn.to/3ttN88F

// TIMESTAMPS //
00:00 Skit
01:09 Context
01:46 Circuit A, Exercise 1
02:27 Circuit A, Exercise 2
03:02 Circuit A, Exercise 3
03:34 Circuit B, Exercise 1
04:23 Circuit B, Exercise 2
05:02 Circuit B, Exercise 3
05:53 When to Perform
06:12 Outro

// SHOW NOTES //
Episode 103

INTRODUCTION

If you’re here because you watched our last video on scapular dyskinesis, let us know down in the comments so I know who the homies are! If you did not watch our last video, well… we can still be friends ;).

Now, fixing scapular dyskinesis can seem like a daunting task for your average climber without expert assistance, and while I definitely still recommend you see a professional if you have real concerns, this workout should provide you with a low risk blanket approach getting your scapula and shoulders back on track.

You can of course design your own workout using these charts I’ve created, but not everyone wants to tackle that.



THE WORKOUT

We’re going to do two circuits with three exercises in each.

Circuit 1: 2-3x through
Standing W with scap retraction
Plank Shoulder Taps with Scapular Protraction
Quadruped Shoulder Flexion vs PNF D2 flexion

Circuit 2: 2-3x through
Face pull with overhead press
Push Up PLUS on BOSU
“No Pyramid” serratus flexion (alternate upper cuts or bear hugs)

WHEN TO DO IT

You can perform this once a week to maintain or slowly build healthy shoulders, or twice a week to really up your scapula game if this is a larger issue for you. Do this independent of a climbing day as it’s own workout, or do it after a somewhat light climbing session.


FINAL ADVICE

Keep in mind there are many ways to train the muscles we’re targeting here, but I chose this format to keep things relatively short and simple so as to not discourage anyone. There may be some overlap between exercises in this routine but in this case I’m okay with that. Just remember, there are no perfect workout routines, and a good routine for one person may not be good for someone else.

And, hey, if you like this video consider giving it a thumbs up! And subscribe if you’re feeling extra psyched.

Until next time: Train your friends to compliment your scapulohumeral rhythm while you climb the social hierarchy and ultimately ascend to the top of your scapular kingdom. Aaaand repeat, but this time, make a Netflix series about it.

Ran out of room!! For the rest, please check out the show notes:
https://www.hoopersbeta.com/library/h...

// DISCLAIMER //
As always, exercises and rehab programs are to be performed assuming your own risk and should not be done if you feel you are at risk for injury. See a medical professional if you have concerns before starting a new training or recovery program.

// PRODUCERS //
Written and Produced by Jason Hooper and Emile Modesitt

// FOLLOW US ON INSTAGRAM @hoopersbetaofficial //
  / hoopersbetaofficial  

#trainclimbsendrepeat #climbingtraining #scapulardyskinesis