Скачать или смотреть No B-Roll Just Beta - Moe's Valley Bouldering Part 2

Here is a video with a few Moe's Valley classic climbs I managed to do after I got injured at the beginning of our trip to Moe's Valley Utah. On the second day of our trip I did a big shoulder move and felt something in my back get strained. I took about 2 weeks completely off and just supported Naomi on her boulders. After the two weeks and a lot of massage and an acupuncture session I was feeling much better.

On my first day back I did a few moderates to feel out my shoulder. Surprisingly it felt pretty good. The next day I decided to try a bit harder and got on Dead Rabbit V10 which is a classic crimp line in the area. My first session on Dead Rabbit went well, but couldn't quit finish it up. The following session I managed to do it on my second try of the day and was very happy to be climbing hard again. This boulder sometimes gets V9, however I feel like its high dependant. The taller you are the further you can go with the kneebar set in place. I felt like it was a low end V10 for me personally. That same day we walked up the hill and I got on the nearly perfect boulder Gription V9. Gription has some of the coolest sloper rails and is a stand a lone boulder. One line up a beautiful boulder makes it one of the most aesthetic lines in the valley. I would say Gription V9 is my favorite line I did while visiting Moe's Valley. This one is also open to debate in terms of grade, but again the climb changes quit a bit depending on height. So just get out there, do it and call it what you want. It's a damn good boulder no matter what the grade.

After sending those two relatively quickly I had bit more time to try some of the other hard lines. This lead me to Show of Hands V10. Show of Hands climbs out of a small roof with some technical toe hooks and big moves. This one felt a bit harder than Dead Rabbit, but at the end of my first session I was feeling pretty good. On my second session I came back hoping to make some better links and surprised myself by sending it after a few tries from the bottom. I was super happy to do Show of Hands V10. Apparently Show of Hands once received the V11 grade and still does occasionally, but in my opinion it felt like a mid range V10. This is one of those weird climbs that suits short people in one section and tall people in another section. So really its a hard one to grade since everyone fits in it differently.

Lastly, I did Linder's Roof V9 which in my opinion felt just as hard as Show of Hands. The typical sequence for this one felt impossible for me. It typically has a big cross move in the center of the climb, but I couldn't even come close to doing that cross. Apparently the hold that people cross into had broken and got worse over time. Luckily I found some different beta which eliminates the cross completely, but adds quit a few moves. I was psyched to sole the Linder's Roof V9 puzzle with some shorty beta. Using my same beta but exiting left at the arete is also possible but feels a bit easier. I would say stick to climbing the arete all the way to the original top out for full value.

All in all we absolutely loved bouldering in Moe's Valley Utah. A small yet dense area with many quality climbs, flat landings and some great views. We are psyched to go back and finish up a few more climbs and check out the surrounding areas.

Boulders In order of Appearance :
Linder's Roof V9
Gription V9
Dead Rabbit V10
Show of Hands V10

Relaxing Music: http://bit.ly/RelaxinMusic

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