etrailer | Setting up the Curt Trailer Hitch Receiver on your 2016 Nissan Versa

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Today on our 2016 Nissan Versa we're going to be taking a look at the and installing the CURT class one trailer hitch receiver, part number C11256. Here's what this hitch is going to look like once it's installed on the vehicle. As you can see, it's very well hidden right up under near the rear fascia here to where you can't see much other than the receiver tube opening and possibly the plate for the safety chain connection points here. With it being very well hidden, it's going to make sure that you're not going to accidentally hit your shin or anything on it. That's definitely a good thing. Then also how highly tucked up it is underneath here to make sure that it does stay hidden and maintains a very clean look for your vehicle. This hitch is going to be here when you need it for things like bike racks and cargo carriers. Here it's got the 1/2" hitch pinhole that's going to work well to secure your bike racks and cargo carriers.

Here it's got the 1-1/4" by 1-1/4" receiver tube opening with the nice reinforcement collar around there just to make it a little bit stronger at the end there, but also help make it look a little bit more durable. Got the plate-style safety chain connection points under here. This hitch features a 200 pound max tongue weight rating and a 2,000 pound gross trailer weight rating, which you will want to be sure to refer to your owner's manual to see if your vehicle's rated for that type of weight. For all non-trailer loads connected to this hitch CURT does require the use of a stabilization strap in order to keep from voiding the warranty. If you need to pick one up you can get one on our site, part number 18050. Now let's give you some measurements to help with your selection of hitch-mounted accessories like bike racks and cargo carriers. The distance from the center of the hitch pinhole to the outermost part of the rear bumper it's about 5-1/2".

The distance from the top inside edge of the receiver tube opening opening to the ground is about 12". Now let's show you how to install it. First thing we'll need to do before we begin our installation is we'll need to put a safety strap across under there to support the exhaust because we're going to have to let that down in order to gain access to where we need. I'll hang this support strap up. Then I'll just tighten it so that it will allow this exhaust to hang a little bit but not too far down to where it can damage any components. In order to remove this rubber isolators I'm going to put a little bit of spray lubricant on here just to help ease with the disassembly here.

I'll do that on both the front and rear isolator on the exhaust. Now in order to remove that I'm going to take a pry bar, then just pry it right off the end of that. Then I'll do that same thing here up on the other one. Then I can let that hang down a little bit and rest on that support strap. Now what I'll do is I'm going to remove this 10mm bolt right there. That's going to allow this heat shield to hang down a little bit.

I'm going to need to cut this heat shield so that I can have access to this hole. I'll go ahead and mark right along the inside of this ridge here so that I know the line I'm going to cut on. It's this section out here that I'll be cutting out. Now I can take a pair of tin snips in order to cut this. I'll just cut along the line that I made there. Once I've got that cut and it gives me plenty of access to the hole there, I can put that 10mm bolt back in. Now what we'll need to do is with the hole that we've got right here, is we're going to need to file that out. You can use a hand file, or if you've also got some sort of deburring bit like this, that will help cut and grind it down. Whatever you use, you just need to be able to grind it down so that you can get your flat hardware to fit up in there. Once we've got it ground out in order to fit both our spacer block and the head of our carriage bolt through, we'll need to go ahead and put those onto one of our fish wires, starting with the spacer block, then threading in one of our 1-1/2"-long 1/2" carriage bolts. Then we'll need to use the reverse fish wire technique to get it up in there. We'll send the bolt through first and push it up into the frame rail there. Then we can send the spacer block up through and then pull our bolt back down into position. Then we'll repeat that process once we've pulled out the rubber plug for the hole on the other side. Then with a second set of hands you can slide it up into position and carefully put it up over the bolts that you just put into the frame there. Then you want to be sure to get one of the 1/2" flange nuts started on either