etrailer Electric Brake Assembly Review

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Today we're going to be taking a look at and showing you how to install the 12 inch by 2 inch Electric Brake Assemblies for 6,000lb Axles. For the right side, part number is AKEBRK-6R. For the left side, part number is AKEBRK-6L. This very economical complete brake assembly is going to allow us to replace all the components of our braking system with the exception of the drum. We're going to be replacing our springs. All the hardware. The adjuster that we've got down here, we're going to be replacing that.

We're replacing our magnet. We're replacing the keepers. Rather than just doing a pad change, this is going to be more cost effective, and it's also going to save us some time. By replacing all of our hardware, this is going to decrease the likelihood of needing to run out to the store when we're doing our replacement to get the replacement part or the additional parts that we didn't think we'd need. Maybe like if a spring was cracked, maybe our magnet is not working properly, maybe we break one of the keepers when we're trying to get it off. This is completely going to eliminate that.

Remove five bolts, cut two wires, pull it off, put the five bolts back in, re-attach the two wires and we're done. Now, both our primary and secondary shoe are going to have a glued friction plate. The friction pads are going to be glued to the shoe. That's going to eliminate the rivets that we sometimes see. As these shoes wear down and they get close to the end of their life, we're not going to have to worry about the heads of the rivets possibly coming in contact with our drum and causing damage. It's going to have small tabs in here and as we turn that clockwise or counterclockwise.

That's going to increase or decrease the gap that we have behind our bottom shoes. Allowing us to customize the adjustment to the particular set of drums. Another nice thing about this brake assembly that we don't often see is going to be the rubber plug that's included here on the adjustment plate. The adjusters are going to allow us to fine tune that adjustment so we get the maximum braking force possible without costing us any fuel economy or additional wear and tear on our components while we're traveling down the road. We can pop that off from the back side. That's going to leave our adjustment open. We can use our brake spoon to come in and adjust our brakes.

As you can see, as we rotate it, that spring goes into each little slot and whether we go up or down, once we've got it adjusted where we want it, it's going to hold that position for us. Here's what the one for the left side, or the driver's side, is going to look like. As you can see, all the same great hardware, brand new all the way throughout. It's just orientated so that the larger shoe is on the back, here, so as that tire is turning when we're doing most of our braking, our most effective or primary shoe will be there on the back. Now to get our brake assembly off, we first need to remove our drum. Typically, we'll have a dust cap on the end of our hub. We'll just knock that off. Typically a hammer is going to be your best bet. Kind of rotate it a little bit . you see it starting to come off, there. Just pop that off. We'll want to clean up that inside with a towel. Now, this main nut, this large nut here at the end, this is going to be what holds the hub on. There will be one of three styles of keepers. You're either going to have a cotter pen, which will pass down through a hole that's in your axle. You can remove that. Sometimes there's a keeper that slides right over the end of the nut. You can identify that because between the end of the nut and the outside there's going to be a little gap there. You just put your screwdriver in and pop that out. In this case, we've got what's called a "tang washer," so in one of our slots there's going to be a flat spot on the axle. You'll see that once we get it off. There's a little tab of metal right there and then in the slot beside it you're also going to have a little tab of metal. We want to bend that out, all the way out to where it makes contact with the flat part on our axle there. Now we can grab the pair of slip pliers and rotate our nut right off of the end there. Now everything that comes out of here is going to be greasy, so ti's a good idea to have a piece of paper or some kind of towel or something to put it on so you don't get grease on everything. If yours has the same set up that ours does, the tang washer, then right behind that there's going to