How to Train Finger Strength for Climbing [Block Pulls Guide]

⚠️Block pulls? No hangs? Farmer crimps? Edge lifts? Arm lifts? What the heck are these things called?

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⌛ TIMESTAMPS
00:00 Intro and Overview
01:04 A brief note about Dan and this video
-PART 1: CONTEXT-
01:49 Background Info: Why are "no hangs" so popular now?
02:44 Relevance: Why should I do this exercise?
07:21 Why this video is freeeeeee!!
-PART 2: BEFORE YOU BEGIN-
08:27 Equipment: What gear should I use?
09:53 Holds: Should I do pinches, pockets, monos, or crimps?
11:20 Edges: What size edge should I use?
11:34 Grip: Which type of grip should I use?
12:09 Bonus: How should I mount the weight?
-PART 3: GETTING STARTED-
13:25 Form: How do I perform no hangs properly?
14:57 Style: Should I do short reps or long holds?
-PART 4: FIRST SESSION-
16:46 Estimate: Should I do the same weight as I do on the hangboard?
18:24 Initial Testing: How do I figure out my working weight?
21:51 Subsequent Sessions: How do I structure future workouts?
-PART 5: PROGRAMMING-
24:27 Session Scheduling: When should I do this?
24:48 Frequency: How often should I do this?
25:16 Long-Term: How long should I do this?
25:56 Bonus: Should I combine this with other finger training?
-PART 6: PROGRESSION-
26:45 Basic Progression: How do I keep improving?
28:38 Advanced Progression: What if basic progression stops working?
31:55 Intuitive Progression: How do I manage real-world variability?
32:53 Outro: Special thanks to Mesa Rim North City!

📝 SHOW NOTES
Episode 128
https://www.hoopersbeta.com/library/h...

⚠️ DISCLAIMER
As always, exercises and rehab programs are to be performed assuming your own risk and should not be done if you feel you are at risk for injury. See a medical professional if you have concerns before starting a new training or recovery program.

#fingerstrength #climbingtraining #blockpulls