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Dumaguete isn’t just a town—it’s a rhythm, a pulse you feel in its alleys, markets, and street corners. In this episode of our Dumaguete series, we dive into the Painitan, a hidden alley behind the central market where sticky rice, pan de sal, and the hum of daily life collide in a symphony of flavor and motion.

Most visitors walk past without a second thought, overwhelmed or unaware. Here, we slow down. I show you what to order (puto, or sticky rice; pan-de-sal bread rolls; and when to ask for the "best seller" ... smothered in chocolate sauce, peanut butter sauce, and sweetened condensed milk), how much it all costs, and when to come to catch the alley at its liveliest — or most comfortable -- and when it transforms at sunset into a vibrant street food market with fried chicken, lumpia, and carinderia spread across long communal tables.