The GLEN Over TEN - V11 Niagara Glen Bouldering

Here are some of the hardest boulders I have climbed so far at the Niagara Glen. A lot of these sends are years old and it was great to look back on some of this footage. The Phoenix had always been an intimidating and timeless classic, and sending it felt like I had established my step-up outside of V10. Zozobra is such an undeniable line and it really tested my head game. I took an unsavoury foot cut at the lip of the boulder when I sent the stand start. It could have been bad... Bagging Loose Tea had not seen many ascents and I suggested it was harder than V10. The bottom felt nails hard! But wow - what a sick line when you link it all together. Razorblade is likely still the boulder I have worked the hardest for, and was certainly the hardest moves I had done at the time. The shoulder strength I had gained from working and preparing for Razorblade transferred well into Hugh Jackman as I almost sent it the same day - but instead, took what felt like one of my worst punts on a project! The Heat ... well, The Heat is just fantastic. Some of the best flow of diverse movement I have felt on rock.

Hope you guys enjoy sharing a bit in the experience!

Niagara Glen Bouldering
The Phoenix | V11 (1:26)
Bagging Loose Tea Extension - SDS | V10/11 (2:16)
Zozobra SDS | V10/11 (4:00) - BROKE since this video. Still probably in this grade range
Razorblade Rodeo | V11/12 (7:26)
Hugh Jackman | V11 (8:16)
The Heat | V11 (9:48)

As I am putting this description together I realize how hilarious it is that literally all of these boulders have contested grades aside from 'The Heat', and, I suppose the Phoenix is pretty much settled. Let's add 'The Gunt', 'Stiletto', 'CFD left', and 'The Mirror' to the mix and we have the large expanse of the Niagara Glen's no man's land of V10/11. O -- and I think it's possible that Razorblade might be closer to V12 😂. Plus, The Heat is almost certainly harder than V11 if you are too short for the toehook beta... Grades ... am I right??

Grades are a reflection of the newest guidebook & various opinions on Sendage
For more thoughts on the boulders: https://sendage.com/user/dillon-elliott

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https://www.boulderingbreakdown.com/

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