Ep5 - Hyfax/Slider Shoe Replacement (Ski-Doo G4 Snowmobile), Via Rear Suspension Removal.

In this episode of Tech Tips Rasmussen Style Bret teaches his method for replacing the hyfax/slider shoes on a Ski-Doo gen 4 snowmobile. His process includes instruction on how to remove the rear suspension/skid from the snowmobile as well.

Tech Tips is an educational series guiding DIY snowmobile mechanics through fundamental repairs on Ski-Doo Gen 4 sleds. These videos guide viewers through things like: replacing brake pads, removing suspension, changing spark plugs, adjusting clutches, and more!

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Produced by: Jon Cracroft | http://www.joncracroft.com
Hey folks, the wear strips on my slide rails are worn out, I'm going to go ahead and replace those. There's a couple of different ways that I'm aware of, some people like to just pull the bolt and slide the wear strips out the track window, out the back. I've tried this, it's a lot of work and I'm not always successful with it. The way I like to do it is to remove the complete suspension and then I have it out on the floor so that I can more easily replace the wear strip. I'll remove both mounting bolts from one side which will allow me to tip the sled on the floor and then I can pull the remaining two bolts out. I like to just lay the sled right down. It might be all right to throw a piece of cardboard on the floor to protect the side of your sled. And then go ahead and remove these last two bolts. So if you have any trouble with the crossbar rotating you just pull the bottom part of the skid out past the drop bracket and push down on it. Which will then expose the cross shaft. Just clamp down and it comes right on out. At this point we've got all four bolts out, all four mounting bolts, and we can go ahead and raise the front of the suspension up and then take it out, set it on the floor. When we put the suspension back in place we just have to align this little shaft and everything will be good. So there's one retaining bolt that holds the wear strip in place and attaches it to the slide rail. We'll go ahead and remove that. Takes a phillips-head screwdriver. And then there's a nut that's locked in place in the machine groove so don't lose that. There's actually a couple of ways to get the slider off. Generally if it's not stuck too bad you can start it right here and just drive it off. You'll just keep working at it. So you can imagine removing this, trying to pull this out through the track window, while it's still on the sled. The second method that I want to demonstrate to you is by using a pipe wrench. It actually comes off with a lot less effort than trying to hammer it. Just like that. We'll go ahead and clean off the grit. We'll take the two new wear strips, make sure we insert with the hole on the right side. I'll take just a little bit of this lubricant and throw it on just to help it slide a little bit. When you slide the wear strip in place if you push down slightly so that sharp edge doesn't catch it it should go right in place. One and then the other. Putting the locator bolt in. Now with that, we're ready to reinstall the suspension. Put the rear axle in first and align the rear axle wheels in the right spot in the track and then I go ahead and insert the front part. At this point we need to gather up our cross shaft. Little bit of grease on these axles tends to hold them in place and since they're a pivot point anyway it's not a bad idea to grease them. Aaron's putting the first one in. Drop the cross shaft into place second axle. Go ahead and get this one started. I'll have Aaron pull the back into place while I guide this little shaft. Aaron will insert the lower one and the pivot shaft's in place. I'll go ahead and put that axle in and now it's just a matter of holding holding up on the axle and bringing it into place, top and bottom. Just like that. At this point we've got the two left side bolts in place and started, so now we can go ahead and rotate the sled back down and onto it's left side. We'll work on the right side two bolts. Now we need a 17 milometer wrench. So I'm going to reach through the slot on the running board. Okay, go ahead and tighten this...