In this episode of Tech Tips Rasmussen Style Bret shows us how to prepare a used snowmobile for the new season. Jump ahead using the table of contents below:
Cleaning Belt and Clutch: 0:27
How To Install Belt: 0:38
How To Check Belt Tension: 1:40
Installing Clutch/Belt Cover: 2:29
Checking The Suspension: 3:05
Check The Fluids: 4:55
How To Check Chain Tension: 6:57
Checking Track For Wear: 9:17
Checking/Slider Shoes: 9:45
How To Check Ski Alignment: 11:25
Checking Ski Carbides: 13:11
How To Change Ski Carbides: 13:57
Check Brake Pads: 14:36
Change Spark Plugs: 15:58
Check Recoil Rope: 18:55
Tech Tips is an educational series guiding DIY snowmobile mechanics through fundamental repairs on Ski-Doo Gen 4 sleds. These videos guide viewers through things like: replacing brake pads, removing suspension, changing spark plugs, adjusting clutches, and more!
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Bret Rasmussen here, I'm just uh, getting my sled ready for winter. I looked out uh outside this morning and it looked like a great day for a job like this. I'm starting with the uh, cleaning the belts and clutches, and uh, just gettin it ready to go. So uh, this sled was uh, taken care of last spring, what we did, we went ahead and did a uh summerization project to it. So the belts been just layin on a flat surface during the summer and I'm just gonna make sure that uh, it's clean, all the belt residue has been removed from the clutches and I'll go ahead and install the belt now with the arrows pointed in the direction of rotation. And then just uh slide it down into place. It's a little bit tight and it's just a matter of working it around the bottom clutch. And once that's into place, I'll go ahead and pull it up and slide it into the uh secondary clutch, just like that. This of course has to be done with the uh sheave spreader tool in place. Now that the belt's in place, we can remove the sheave spreader tool. Just like that. And now we'll work the belt to the top of the uh clutch. Once we've taken the tool out. And now, with a uh belt installed and worked clear to the top of the pulleys, its a good time to check belt deflection. And we go through this uh, we go through the belt deflection adjustment process in another video. But, uh, for now, um the thing that we want to look at is to see that the groove in the top of the belt, the cog groove is at or slightly above the surface. The outside diameter of the secondary clutch. If I take the slack out of the belt, with my hands, I can kinda rotate it and make sure that it's got some uh free play. And to put the belt cover on, it's it's a little bit tight to but it's just a matter of sliding it in, working it down around the uh primary clutch, engage the uh catch here. It's a lot easier than it used to be. And then push the back back in, so the there's kinda an interference fit here so it doesn't rattle once it's installed. But it's a matter of uh just putting a little pressure on it and then your hair pin can go in place and hold it there. Okay, now is a good time to uh get your grease gun out if you didn't do this during the summerization uh process. There's three zerks that you need to make sure you hit. There's one right here on the uh rear arm scissor. And then there's two more where the front arm attaches to the slide rail. Here and here. This a good time to check the bolt torque where the uh bolts hold the suspension to the tunnel. It's jut a good thing to check periodically um before you start the season. Uh, these these bolts rarely come loose, but it's uh one thing that can cause you some grief if they do. Uh I'd like to visic, visually check the all of the hardware, all the bolts on the suspension. This one that could come loose and cause you some grief. Just take a good look at all of the bolts. And while your uh, here, looking um at the suspension, check the uh limiter strap for frays or cracks. Um, it's a rubber item that could be um, that could wear over time. The other thing that you need to be physically checking for is the the bearing in the idler wheels...
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