How to Make a Dirt or Gravel Strainer or Sifter

In this video I will be showing you how to make a dirt or gravel strainer that fits over the top of a wheelbarrow. This is a great way to sift through dirt fast and efficiently, separating large and small particles. The easiest way to clean up the driveway is by using the strainer to separate the sand and gravel. This can be used for small or large gravel and this would be based on what size of mesh is used. This is expanded steel mesh which was purchased from a local metal supplier and fabricator. #OEMTOOLS #gardening #landscaping

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This section is 2’ x 3’ to fit over top of the wheelbarrow. The size may vary depending on your application, a large section may have more flex in the center. The metal supplier was nice enough to point out that when this is cut, there is a risk of sharp barb type edges. Be extremely careful when handling this, it can be very sharp. If this is the case, you can use a file to clean up the edge.

Next is cutting the outer border. The edges will be covered, this not only provides protection but stiffens up the section and also provides a small wall so any material doesn’t fall off the side. For this I’m using some 2x2 I had laying around. The first pieces will be cut at 22”, so 2” shorter and this will account for the notched portions you’ll see in a moment.

The sides are rough cut, so one side will be cut smooth on the table saw and a cap will go on top of this section to sandwich the mesh. Only a 1/16” is cut off the side, just enough to make it smooth.

Next is making the notched out portion where the mesh will sit. This will be about 1” high and 1/16” in depth as the mesh is about a 1/16” in thickness. It’s best to have it so the mesh can be clamped in place instead of loose.

Once that’s done, here’s a rough mock up. A piece of wood is placed in the center to reduce any sagging, then a measurement is taken for the side pieces of wood. The measurement should be the same for both sides, make sure the mesh fits in the notched portions, and it’s square. Both sides should be the same length.

Now is cutting those boards to length. I won’t provide the dimensions, however they may vary based on the size of your steel, notch depth, and material size.

To sandwich the mesh, I have some saved 3/8” thick by 2” ripped pieces from a previous project.

First is fastening the first portion of the frame together. Holes are marked out with a square, they’ll be on center with the perpendicular pieces. Only one screw for each corner to avoid any chance of cracking. They’re predrilled, this too will help avoid cracking and allow for the connecting pieces to be tightened.

Using a corner clamp, this is a great way of keeping the piece in place. A single 2.5” #8 screw gets installed in each corner.

Now is cutting those caps, first the overlapping pieces. The caps will cross over the intersection points of the first half which will maximize the strength and rigidity of the frame while having a compact profile.

All those caps are pre-drilled again. This is thin wood so the risk of cracking is much higher. The screws are placed in such a way that it interlocks into the mesh through the holes. The mesh has not been drilled. Four screws in each of these pieces. They’ll be put into place first and a c clamp can be used for assistance.

Finally are the last two cap pieces, now that the other two caps are in place, we have the final measurements.

Cup them to length.

Then install, due to the longer length, these will have five screws instead. 1 1/4” screws are only used here.

This will be exposed to dirt with moisture content so as an added step of protection, I have applied a mixture of linseed oil and turpentine. Allow this to dry overnight and then it’s ready for use on any project where you require material to be separated.

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