Goodyear Welt Vs Blake Stitch: What They Are & Which To Choose

Bespoke Unit's Paul Anthony & Charles-Philippe compare the Goodyear Welt to the Blake Stitch. Watch our video to learn the differences between these popular shoe construction methods.

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Pros & Cons of the Blake Stitch:    • Pros & Cons Of Blake Stitch Shoe Cons...  

Pros & Cons of Goodyear Welted Shoes:    • Pros & Cons Of Goodyear Welt Shoe Con...  

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Goodyear Welt Vs Blake Stitch: What They Are & Which To Choose

A Goodyear Welt has three layers: an outer sole, a welt, and an upper. The shoemaker sews the upper to the welt, and then the welt to the outsole.

The sole on the Allen Edmonds boot we have here is an English Dainite rubber sole. As an historical aside, this name comes from the fact that the Northampton factory making these soles was open day and night.

Back to the construction, the three-layer approach creates a barrier between the outside and the inside of the shoe. This results in the shoe's waterproofness, one of the main selling points of Goodyear Welted footwear.

However, the Goodyear Welt also results in a more expensive shoe than those with the Blake Stitch. Not only is the method itself more labor-intensive and difficult, the upper tends to be of high quality too. Of course, a cheap upper on top of a lovingly-crafted welt and sole wouldn't make much sense!

The Blake Stitch is a newer process, requiring machinery to manufacture. There are two types of Blake Stitch: the Rapid Stitch and the McKay Method. Essentially, a Blake Stitch goes straight through the sole and into the upper. This requires special machinery, since part of the process is done from inside the shoe.

Hence, you have a more flexible construction with a quicker break-in period compared to the Goodyear Welt. However, you also have a stitch visible on the bottom of the shoe, which can let water in. Therefore, warm, dry climates are the primary place these are seen.

In Blake Stitched footwear without a lining to cover the stitch, said stitch can be felt on the inside. Depending on the shoe, this can be uncomfortable and even cause irritation. Further, while every Tom, Dick & Harry cobbler can resole a Goodyear, you need to find someone with the necessary machinery for Blake construction.

Pros of Goodyear Welted shoes:

• Waterproof
• Easily resoleable, no special machinery necessary
• Sturdy, shoe will last you a long time

Cons:

• High cost, usually double the Blake.
• Longer break-in compared to other common constructions
• Heavier than Blake Stitched shoes

Pros of Blake Stitched shoes:

• Less expensive than Goodyear Welted
• Faster, more comfortable break-in time compared to Goodyear
• Allows for thinner, sleeker shoe designs1

Cons:

• Prone to water infiltration
• Resoling require specialized equipment
• Internal stitching can be uncomfortable

If you need a more water resistant shoe, Goodyear construction is the way to go. It's also a good pick for shoes you'll wear very often; your black captoe Oxford, for example.

On the other hand, the Blake Stitch is good for summer shoes, as they'll be lighter, with a shorter break-in period. Slightly more out-of-the-ordinary shoes that you don't wear every day are another good bet for this construction. Wholecuts, for instance, or very high-end dress shoes like opera pumps. For very formal shoes, it helps that Blake construction lends itself to shoes with a very sleek profile.

In general, the Goodyear Welt is used on the highest-end and bespoke shoemakers, but that doesn't mean it's inherently better.

REMEMBER to comment! We'd love to hear your thoughts on the Goodyear Welt, Blake Stitch and other construction methods. Otherwise, feel free to suggest new videos and articles we can make!

Yours,

The Bespoke Unit Team

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Goodyear Welt Vs Blake Stitch: What They Are & Which To Choose
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