Range Rover P38 # 092 - Replace the AC compressor

Developing squeaks and screeches when the AC is on, I tried to replace the tensioner pulley for a new one, but that didn't solve the issue. I've had it since last summer, but thought it was the clutch slipping due to incorrect spacing on the clutch. However after cleaning the area, trying some sticky spray to improve friction I noticed the clutch itself was rather loose. Very wobbly even though the center bolt through it was tight.

Instead of replacing the clutch I decided to replace the whole compressor. The clutch can be replacing in-car without evacuating the system and refilling it. But I also noticed green spray around the whole compressor that might indicate a starting leaking compressor. It is most likely 19 years old, and a clutch costs almost as much as the whole compressor with a clutch. So a new compressor it is.

AC compressor: ERR4375 (Denso 10PA17C with BMW clutch, 4 ribbed poly v-belt)
Alternate part numbers: LR029640, Behr/Hella 8FK351110-591, BMW 1385172, BMW 1390589, BMW 64521385172, BMW 64521390589, BMW 64528371021, BMW 64528385912, BMW 64528385913, BMW 64528385914, BMW 64528391135, BMW 64528391693, BMW 64528391694, BMW 64528391695, BMW 8371021, BMW 8385912, BMW 8385913, BMW, 8385914, BMW 8391135, BMW 8391693, BMW 8391694, BMW 8391695

AC tensioner: STC2131 (BMW 64 55-1 748 3 21 / INA F-221076)

AC belt: STC3397

AC clutch: STC2324 (BMW 4 ribbed poly v-belt)

The process is fairly simple for once and done best on the ground with the car on normal ride height. Support it with jack stands when working under the car. Check out my other video # 80 on replacing the tensioner and belt:    • Range Rover P38 # 080 - SRS Fault - G...  

I've had a workshop evacuate the system, and they recovered 675 grams of 1100 grams so that indicates a leak was indeed happening.

We'll check the system for any pressure and residue, then remove the whole compressor and install a brand new one. The new one doesn't come with the hose manifold so we'll have to move that over. However a new gasket is supplied with the new compressor.

I decided to disconnect the low pressure hose coupling over the exhaust instead of on the compressor. It needs to be cleaned and it's also one of the few o-rings that hasn't be replaced when I fixed the AC system 2-3 years ago. The high pressure hose must be disconnected at the compressor, but is flexible so it's easy to access to clean and replace the o-ring on it.

I'll remove the splash guard and the guard side mounting plastic piece on the right side of the car to gain better access to the AC compressor. You'll also need to loosen the steering damper from the chassis and move it out of the way to remove the AC compressor. Also removing the intercooler hose from the intercooler to the turbo on the right side of the engine bay lets you have much more space to play with when reaching the upper AC compressor bolts, hose connectors and wire connector.

High pressure hose (thin) o-ring onto compressor: JUU100230L (9 mm)
Low pressure hose (thick) o-ring onto compressor: JYX100150L (JUU100240L? Unsure what's correct here).
Low pressure hose (thick) o-ring junction over exhaust: STC3110 (17 mm)

The new AC compressor should be emptied of oil and the correct amount added to it. Then turn it by hand 10 times to lubricate all parts. Depending on year and engine there's different oil and R134a fill levels. The system uses ND OIL 8, and I put PAG 46 oil in mine.

Diesels 1.4 dl (0.30 US pints)
V8 up to 1999 1.5 dl (0.32 US pints)
V8 from 1999 1.8 dl (0.38 US pints)

Diesels take 1100 grams (39 oz) of R134a.
V8 up to 1999 take 1250 grams (44 oz) of R134a.
V8 from 1999 take 1380 ± 25 grams (49 ± 1 oz) of R134a.

Start the car without AC active (press the AC OFF button). Let it idle for 2 minutes, then cycle AC on for 10 seconds, and then 10 seconds off. Repeat the cycles at least 5 times. Then check for any AC leaks.

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