Removing brake rotors - tips on preventing future torture

0:00 Intro
0:20 Removing the caliper housing
1:00 Hanging the caliper housing
1:25 Removing the brake pads
1:40 Removing the caliper bracket
2:05 Removing the brake disc screws
3:33 How to get a stuck rotor off
3:49 Prevent future pain, using anti-seize
4:22 Do you need these screws?
4:53 Reversal and conclusion

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Model shown: Honda City 5MT GM2 2009-2014
Same specs for for Honda small and subcompact vehicles like the Jazz, Fit, BRV and Brio.
Similar procedure for many vehicles.

How to jack your vehicle up:    • How NOT to get crushed under your car  

Tools/items used:
12 + 17 mm socket with various ratchets
19 mm wrench
Breaker bar
PH3 impact driver bit with hammer
1/4 inch socket
3m copper anti-seize
2x jack stands with floor jack
Sandpaper

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In this video I show you how to remove front disc rotors from any car. I show the steps where you begin with removing the caliper housing, removing the brake pads then the caliper bracket.

Brake disc setups are similar across many vehicles. The bolt, nut sizes and torque specs I mention in the video apply only to Honda small and subcompact vehicles.

It helps to keep both wheels off the ground, it makes it easier to turn the hubs to reach the bolts. The caliper housing is held on by two 12 mm bolts that screw into the caliper guide pins (that has a 19 mm head). When you removing and screwing the bolts back in, hold the 19 mm head in place with a 19 mm wrench. The torque specs are 16 lbf-ft. Hand the caliper housing with some wire or string. You do not want it to hang by the brake hose line, it can damage or rupture.

The caliper bracket itself it held by two 17 mm bolts, torque specs are 79.6 lbf-ft. I used a breaker bar, it just makes things easier. The bracket has two brake pad holding clips. Keep them in place.

The disc rotor has is secured with two screws. Over time these easily rust or are just difficult to remove and the screw heads get damaged; thus my using an impact bit driver to get them out. The torque on these screws are 7.2 lbf-ft. Whether you reuse these screws or not is up to you. The best option is to get an impact gun, or hand impact driver. What I showed in the video is what I had, which is why it took more effort.

The brake rotor itself can be stuck on due to rust. You can use two 8 x 1.25 mm bolts to remove a stuck rotor. Screw both in bit by bit and it will pop free.

Using copper anti-seize is a good way to prevent rust buildup and making things easier to remove in the future. Apply a thin layer on the hub, on the brake disc front (which comes into contact with the wheel) and the screws. Do not apply too much, you don’t want it to drip onto the brake disc surface or pads. That will cause serious braking issues. A little goes a long way.

The following questions are answered/explained:
-When to replace disc brakes
-When to replace brake pads
-How to remove brake caliper housing
-How to remove brake caliper bracket
-How to remove brake disc/rotors
-How to remove brake pads
-How to remove stuck brake rotor screws
-How to remove a stuck disc rotor
-How to use copper antiseize on brake system to prevent rust buildup
-How to prevent brake screws from getting stuck for future removal
-How to use anti-seize on brake rotor screws for easier removal next time


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Music by Playsound from Pixabay
Music by AlexGrohl from Pixabay


#honda #diy #brakes #brakedisc #brakerotors #antiseize #carmaintenance #stepbystep #tutorial #autorepair #carlovers #vehiclecare #lifehacks #tips

Copper anti-seize for rust prevention on brake rotor hub
Copper anti-seize for rust prevention on brake rotor screws

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