Surfing TAKEOFF Point, and the timing for Shortboarder, Longboarder & Beginner

Описание к видео Surfing TAKEOFF Point, and the timing for Shortboarder, Longboarder & Beginner

If you wonder why some surfers did few paddles (or none at times) and just take off on a wave, because they got good timing in using the wave lips (where the swell energy breaks & releases) for the push, and a good wave face angle to slide (if too steep, it will be a nose dive) with gravitation.

It is a bit different on a more mellow or unbroken wave, or less steep wave face angle, or white.

That made a surf environment interesting with the diversity of take off points... Of course it will still be a competition out there on a popular surf spot, hopefully a healthy or at least a safe one.

Ah Gan
Dive Surf Yoga instructor

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