How to Fix an FDP Injury for Climbers (Pain in Finger, Hand, or Forearm)

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// TIMESTAMPS //
Intro and Context (00:00)
Video Overview (00:23)
Part 1: Quick Anatomy Lesson (00:40)
Part 2: Internal Risk Factors (01:16)
Part 3: Causes of Injury (02:13)
Part 4: Severity Tests (03:54)
Test #1 (04:23)
Test #2 (04:53)
Test #3 (05:03)
Test #4 (05:19)
Test #5 (05:43)
Severity Chart (06:06)
Part 5: Differential Diagnosis (06:31)
DDx Test #1 (06:58)
DDx Test #2 (07:12)
DDx Test #3 (07:23)
DDx Test #4 (07:37)
DDx Test #5 (07:48)
DDx Test #6 (08:02)
Part 6: FDP Treatment (08:26)
Rehab Activity #1 (08:58)
Rehab Activity #2 (09:15)
Rehab Activity #3 (09:35)
Rehab Activity #4 (10:00)
Rehab Activity #5 (10:45)
Rehab Activity #6 (11:14)
Rehab Activity #7 (11:38)
Rehab Activity #8 (12:01)
Rehab Activity #9 (12:23)
Part 7: Prognosis (12:54)
Part 8: Prevention Tips (13:16)
Outro and Bloopers (14:11)

// SHOW NOTES //
Episode 90

INTRODUCTION

Do you like holding holds? How about gripping grips? Do you like slappin’ them slopers, squeezin’ them pinches, dunkin’ them jugs, and clampin’ them crimps? If you said “yes” to any or all of these questions, you just might be a frequent FDP abuser. Unfortunately, FDPs don’t always appreciate being yanked around, so today we’re learning how to do some sweet sweet rehab.

In this video we'll discuss the injuries and rehab activities associated with the flexor digitorum profundus, or FDP. We’ll start with relevant anatomy, then move on to internal risk factors, causes of injury, testing and symptoms, and finally how to heal and retrain to get you back to sending!

ANATOMY

The FDP is the most important finger flexor we have. It helps in multiple hand positions, and developing its strength is vital to our advancement in climbing, but it’s also the second most commonly issued tissue for climbers. So what is it? The FDP is a muscle that originates on the ulna and interosseous membrane, unlike many of the other flexors that originate at the medial epicondyle. It travels down the anterior forearm and then splits into 4 tendons, which attach at the base of our distal phalange and allow the FDP to fully flex the fingers.

RISK FACTORS

There are three main anatomical traits, or risk factors, that can make your FDP more prone to injury.

#1: Weak FDP

The biggest anatomical risk factor is a direct lack of strength of the FDP muscles themselves. This makes them more prone to injury due to an inability to handle the strain and stress placed upon them while climbing.

Ran out of room!! For the rest, please check out the show notes:
https://www.hoopersbeta.com/library/f...

// DISCLAIMER //
As always, exercises and rehab programs are to be performed assuming your own risk and should not be done if you feel you are at risk for injury. See a medical professional if you have concerns before starting a new training or recovery program.

// IMAGE ATTRIBUTIONS //
Hand Joints: Kohlins, CC BY-SA 4.0 https://creativecommons.org/licenses/..., via Wikimedia Commons

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