Скачать или смотреть [出差] 九州D4下｜熊本城的日與夜：渡海上岸，城牆點燈 I Kyushu D4 PM — Kumamoto Castle by Day & Night (Ferry from Shimabara)

2024年10月30日

早上從雲仙下山到島原，繞完島原城、在島原港邊吃了小火鍋當午餐後，這集從這裡開始。
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下午我搭渡輪從島原港到熊本港。這段航線其實就是把島原半島跟熊本市區用海路接起來，班次不算密，行程時間要先算好；但那天海況很穩、坐起來很舒服。甲板上看出去整片海藍到不行，回頭望島原半島的山線（眉山那一帶）也很清楚——那種「正在離開某個地方」的感覺很強烈。

抵達熊本港後，我用港口的接駁車券直接去熊本站。熊本港離市區其實有段距離，周邊也比較空，如果沒有接駁車，轉車會麻煩很多。到了熊本站，我先把行李丟到站前的旅館（東橫inn），順便在站前晃一下：熊本的路面電車（熊本市電）真的很有存在感，車型新舊混搭，有些是比較新、很現代的車廂，也有那種老派的外觀，看起來有點像高雄的路面電車，也讓我想到之前在四國松山看到的城市節奏——你不用急著趕路，車自己會把人慢慢送到該去的地方。

接著我搭電車往熊本城方向走，在花畑町附近下車，再走行幸坂到南口進城。
熊本城算是日本城郭裡的代表之一（很多人會把它跟姬路城、松本城並列成「必看」等級），最有名的不只是天守閣，而是整套防禦設計：高高的石垣、轉折很多的動線、還有那些讓人抬頭就覺得壓迫感很重的城牆角度。它最早是由加藤清正主導整備的城郭，後來也成為熊本城下町的核心。
另外一個不能不提的是：熊本城在2016 年熊本地震受損很嚴重，所以現在的參觀方式跟「完全修復的古城」不一樣——很多地方會用架高步道、引導你沿著特定路線走，城內有些區域也還在修復中。你走在那些臨時動線上，其實會更直接感受到「這座城還在努力恢復」的現場感。

天守閣裡面現在是偏博物館式的展示：看得到熊本的歷史脈絡、也看得到跟加藤家有關的故事與文物整理。白天逛完一圈後，我從南口出來到旁邊的櫻之馬場 城彩苑吃晚餐。這一帶做成有點「城下町商店街」的形式，土產、餐廳集中，很適合當作補給站。我那天吃的是牛肉蓋飯定食（在這種地方吃飯就圖一個方便＋有氣氛）。

吃飽後，我又買了夜間票，回到熊本城看夜間點燈。夜裡的城牆、石垣、天守輪廓真的很漂亮，整個空氣也跟白天不一樣；只是燈光會一直變換顏色，會讓你同時感受到「很新潮的燈光秀」跟「很老的城牆」疊在一起，違和跟新鮮感一起來——但也因為這樣，第二次進來看，反而更記得。

點燈看完我繞去加藤神社那一側收尾。這間神社就是祭祀加藤清正，位置也很妙，從某些角度看出去能把城跟市區一起收入眼底。最後我走到櫻町（公車總站＋商場＋花畑公園周邊），簡單逛一下再搭市電回熊本站。時間晚了，站前也差不多要收攤，就回旅館休息，結束這天的熊本。

After spending the morning in Shimabara—walking around Shimabara Castle and having a small hot pot lunch by the port—I continued the journey across the Ariake Sea to Kumamoto.

The ferry from Shimabara Port to Kumamoto Port isn’t very frequent, so timing matters. But that afternoon the sea was calm, the sky was bright blue, and the ride felt surprisingly peaceful. Looking back toward the Shimabara Peninsula and Mt. Mayu, the coastline slowly drifting away, it had that quiet feeling of leaving one chapter and moving toward the next.

From Kumamoto Port, I took the shuttle bus into the city. The port itself is quite remote, so without the shuttle it would be inconvenient to reach Kumamoto Station. After dropping my luggage at the hotel near the station, I wandered around a bit and noticed the tram system. Kumamoto’s streetcars have a mix of old and new rolling stock—some modern, some with a nostalgic look. It reminded me a little of Kaohsiung’s light rail, and also of Matsuyama in Shikoku. There’s a slower rhythm to cities with trams; you don’t rush—they carry you through.

In the afternoon, I took the tram to Hanabatacho and walked up Gyoko-zaka to enter Kumamoto Castle from the south gate.

Kumamoto Castle is one of Japan’s most famous castles, historically associated with Kato Kiyomasa. Its steep stone walls and defensive layout are especially impressive—designed not just for beauty, but for strength. The 2016 Kumamoto earthquake caused significant damage, and even today parts of the complex remain under restoration. Because of this, visitors follow elevated pathways around the grounds rather than freely exploring the interior. Walking those temporary routes actually makes you more aware that this is a living historic site still in recovery.

Inside the main keep, the exhibition spaces document Kumamoto’s history and the legacy of the Kato clan. After finishing the daytime visit, I exited and had dinner at Sakura-no-baba Josaien, a castle-town-style shopping and dining area just outside the south entrance. I kept it simple with a beef rice set meal.

Later in the evening, I re-entered the castle grounds for the night illumination. Seeing the castle twice in one day felt different—the daytime view highlighting its structure and stonework, while at night the illuminated walls and silhouette created a completely different atmosphere. The lighting changes colors throughout the evening, which feels slightly modern against such an old structure, but also strangely fitting in its own way.

Before leaving, I stopped by Kato Shrine, dedicated to Kato Kiyomasa. From certain angles, you can see both the castle and the city skyline together, which makes for a fitting end to the visit.

I finished the night around Sakuramachi—bus terminal, shopping mall, park—then took the tram back to Kumamoto Station. Most shops were already closing by then. Time to head back and rest after a long day that started in Unzen, crossed the sea, and ended under the lights of Kumamoto Castle.


章節時間軸
0:00 午餐吃完 準備回島原港搭船
1:36 上船 準備出發
3:51 抵達熊本港
4:45 接駁車前往熊本站
5:18 熊本站
7:11 路面電車前往熊本城
7:36 加藤清正公像
9:05 南口
11:02 天守閣前広場
11:33 天守閣內部 博物館
16:47 離開天守閣
17:13 從南口原路離開
18:02 櫻之馬場 城彩苑吃晚餐
18:57 從南口進入 夜間點燈
19:50 天守閣前廣場 夜間點燈
21:05 加藤神社
21:40 櫻町
23:35 搭電車回車站 晚安

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