How To Hangboard: Small Edge Finger Strength Training

Small edge training is something that lots of you ask about. Questions are typically:

1. When should I use this form of training in my plan?
2. Is it better than other forms of fingerboard work?
3. What is the best size to start at?
4. When is this appropriate for me?

When training on small edges - there's 2 really good methods to use. One is standard small edge hang training at a set size and the other is edge reduction training. Both of these methods are really effective when combined into training cycles in the appropriate individuals. You will of course, need to adjust the intensity to be correct for your method and your ability and in this video we show you a step by step on how to do this!

In answer to the common questions above....

1. Intermittently. We don't use small edge training across the entire year in the vast majority of our clients and athletes. This is a big NO!

2. There is no "best" method of fingerboard or hangboard training. We've said it before and we'll say it again!

3. At a size where you can maintain good form AND you're not failing. Yes, it's possible to play with the "failure" element more in very elite climbers, but for the majority we recommend staying within your margin of completion.

4. We'd love to answer this one in a single paragraph, but it's very individual!! In the broadest sense, this form of training is unlikely to be appropriate for juniors, for beginner climbers, anyone who struggles with hyper-mobility of joints and of course anyone who's injured or has niggles.

If in doubt, contact a coach or speak to someone in person, who you really trust :-)


Find out more about our Lattice Training Plans here: https://latticetraining.com/plans/

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